Power Wheels Info - RailServe.com Forum

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Hank
Username: Hank

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 09:53 pm:

Does anyone have experience converting the Power Wheels basic on/off control to some sort of more sophisticated variable-speed motor controller? Can you recommend a circuit/parts? Does this improve efficiency? Does it provide dynamic braking?
Thanks,
Cary

Hank
Username: Hank

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 09:48 pm:

Does anyone have any contact info for the person who did the iQuad ATV Mod (http://www.i-zapp.com/e-quad/). I tried the email address on the site and it bounced back. I want to follow up on the mods done for it.
Thanks,
Hank

modifiedpowerwheels.com

Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 11:18 pm:

Cool! awesome information guys!!
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

I have upgraded my daughters Power Wheels harley davidson to 24V without a problem.... Works great, but weight and duration are certainly a concern. Especially if you have traction bands or anything like that installed.

18 volts is certainly the way to go. Plenty fast as well as reliable.. (I made a video for you at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com)

If you are looking to upgrade I suggest you check out the videos and support at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 04:14 pm:

Woohoo.

Couple of things.

1. No fuse that can be replaced inside of foot pedal. Its a tempered steal type fuse. Once failed- replace or upgrade.

I dont recommoned 24 volts, unless you have added 24 volt motors and swtiches )foot pedal, shifter switches)

18 volts, 6 (6 volt battereies) Short run time, good speed. Recommend heat sinks or copper tubing for cooling motors ! or they will burn up.

Some people have set it up for the NOS, I recommend the Power wheels mods cd, sold on e-bay. It is a good cd and worth the money !

If you are looking for free info and good info - www.ryanhull.com (forum for power wheels

sporty

MJ
Username: Mcpjam

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 08:36 pm:

Reply to SuperCow:

I think we are still trying to figure out how to push 24V (2x12V batteries) on a Power Wheels w/o frying the metals.

As previously noted, my pedal switch fried when I sent 24V thru it. I know that if I replace the switch, I will probably fry it again. So, what do u guys recommend without going to 18V.

Does anyone else want to comment on the NOS idea???

Supercow
Username: Supercow

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 02:35 pm:

hey guys im new have any ideas on how to add a nos button onto an escalade and make it faster??

Arik Anderson

Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 12:09 pm:

____ALSO____

I am feverishly and desperately looking for the toolbox to the ORIGINAL GAUCHO GRANDE by PEG PEREGO. For those of you that dont know, the newer Gaucho silver edition has the toolbox on the hood. The earlier version had the toolbox holder w/ toolbox in the REAR, just above the bumper. Again, ive looked everywhere, and i still cant find it. Please contact me via E mail if you do.

TY

Arik Anderson

Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 11:17 am:

Dang,

I bought a Peg Perego Gaucho Grande (the yellow one) for my son for 50 bucks from a garage sale. I ordered a charger from peg perego also, seeing that it only came with the battery and not the charger. When i charged the battery up, the thing didnt work. Assuming it was a battery problem ,i then ordered the 12 volt peg perego battery from costco (33.10 @costco.com + 10.00 off with a costco cash card brought it down to 23.10. not bad =o) ). I charged the new battery up, still nothing. Im about to throw this thing away to the curb and sell the batteries!!! CAN ANYONE HELP MY SON AND I??? I've noticed that whenever my son pushes the pedal while the battery is connected, the resistance lets up on the back wheels. What does this mean?

modifiedpowerwheels.com

Posted on Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 07:35 pm:

Sure. It seems to be rather common to "fry a pedal". The power wheels harley that my daughter uses and I modified to 24V at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com is one that they reworked the wiring a bit because it was melting the pedal.

I havent had this issue with the rewire. You can tell if yours was rewired - it is part of the model number. You think this wouldnt affect later model PWs.

The switches are fairley common switches. Check out my reseller section on http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum I think there is a company called all electronics that will have your switch, but it isnt a radio shcak type of thing.

MJ
Username: Mcpjam

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, April 21, 2006 - 08:36 pm:

"Power wheels out of service"

After modifying my Hummer H2 Power wheels to 24V, the pedal does not seem to work anymore. So I took the thing apart and noticed that the pedal gizmo says DC 12V 30A (probably a fuse) on it. I guess I fried the thing with the 24V.

Now, I am not sure where I can get a new pedal box, but I am thinking about breaking open the box and replacing the fuse, and I know it will probably go out again, but I did get many hours off play before it fried.

Anyone else fry their pedal?????????

jasncab

Posted on Tuesday, April 18, 2006 - 06:56 pm:

Sporty - glad to see someone is still on here!!

Check out the video:

am sticking with stock motors (3.50 a piece) and new gears. I made a video showing the process at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

It tells you the model number of the motors you need as well as pictures and details of the pinions you will need as well.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 08:36 am:

MJ,

I know that you can get 24 motors, (johnson) from allelectronics.com and a few other places out there on the net. I am not sure if titan offers 24 volt motors tho.

I would say with some modding, you should be able to make it a a 4x4.

I have never done this, but I know some who have posted in the past here and at ryanhull's forum have.

One of them should be able to give you alot more info than I could on that.

sporty

MJ
Username: Mcpjam

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 01:42 am:

The titan 550s that I found are only 14V. Where can I find ones that are 24V.

Also, is it possible to make my Hummer 4x4, adding motors to the front 2 wheels. I dont believe this has ever been done, but I have some interest in this. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

jasncab

Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 01:29 pm:

You can go with Titan 550s which everyone has great results with, but I havent burned a motor yet at 24V. As long as your child isnt too big for the gearing etc the motors should be ok with monitoring.

Your next problem will most likely be the gearboxes. Adding traction with bands or weight stresses the gears especially while turning. There isnt a differential in these things, so they rely somewhat on the slip of the tires.

I am sticking with stock motors (3.50 a piece) and new gears. I made a video showing the process at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com be sure to post questions in the forums there as well at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum !!

MJ
Username: Mcpjam

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 12:06 am:

Thanks for all the replies.

So, I did modify the Hummer to 24V and it runs fairly fast. The motors have not burnt yet, as I monitor them wisely. I have also put 2' long rubber bands on the plastic wheels to get better traction.

I am worried about the motors getting burnt out, so my next qustion is:

What is the voltage limit on the stock motors?
Can I replace the stock motors with brand new 24V motors to go with my 24V battery?

Thanks again,

MJ

jasncab

Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 12:23 am:

MJ, I have just completed the upgrade video for the pontiac solstice. This uses the same type of electrical as your hummer.

I safely got it to 18V, but I wouldnt try 24V

You can check out the results at
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewblog.aspx?blogid=100

jasncab

Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 05:31 pm:

The Harley I modified is stock motors. Works great. We do have to limit the usage and it has a tremendous amount of slip (burn out) so the motors arent pressured much.

On a Hummer I would be careful. On the street with a light child it would probably be ok, but on grass with any child or on the street with a heavier child (over 40 lbs) I wouldnt recommend it.

Try going to 18 volts! It will work the same, just order a 6 volt battery instead of the 12 volt and wire the same.

Also the newer PW have the enclosed realys... wont handle 24V I am guessing... So be careful!

Be sure to post the results at http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com and I will throw you a bumper sticker for the trouble (I know what an incentive!)

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 08:57 am:

MJ,

Not with stock motors, you will burn them up. You can with different motors, you will also might have to change the relay switch and circuit breaker.

With some mods, yes, as is - no.

Sporty

MJ
Username: Mcpjam

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 05:08 am:

I just bought a H2 Hummer by Little Tikes and is it possible to modify that from 12v to 24v by putting in another 12V battery? I saw the video on http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com where he modified the PW from 12v to 24v, can I do the same thing to my Hummer H2????

stevorino

Posted on Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 08:45 am:

new 24v motors at all electronics!!!!! i bet if i installed these on my sons adventure 4x4 they uould burn a gear in 20 seconds....im bidding on a used gearbox on e-bay,,,

modifiedpowerwheels.com

Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 11:32 am:

Posted a new video of the modifications I made to my daughters harley. Took about 2 hours and she was doing donuts at the end.
$35 for the harley got two extra 6V batteries and a charger. Total cost about $75.

http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewblog.aspx?blogid=98

(Several other videos over there as well! - these forums are great! Lets keep sharing the information!)

http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

Ryan Hull

Posted on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 11:23 am:

Yes Ted, that grease would work fine. In fact, any type of bearing grease would work. Pick your flavor.

And the idea for sealing the gear assy with RTV would be great too. Just make sure that the areas are chemically cleaned, or a bond/seal will not form.

There's a discussion about this on my website as well. http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2 You can check that out and see if it pertains to your ideas or even put your ideas in there as well.

Anyone who has Powerwheel Modification ideas should visit our website as well. There's over 100 members now! You can post a question, talk about a plan, pictures, videos, as well as a classifieds section, live chat, and I'm working on individual user websites to post your project, photos, etc.

Hopefully very soon some of the retailers we buy parts and batteries from will come onboard and offer discounts for members. I think Gruber battery already does. We shall see how far we can go with this idea, and we welcome new members!

So if you want your powerwheels to go fast, or you want to know How to make power wheels faster, just join the fun!

So check it out!
http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2

Ted Taylor

Posted on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 12:40 am:

How much grease did you use or was there enough inside to move around and re-use onto the gears ?

I have not used it but I bet the Lucas oil that sits on the counter of auto parts stores with the gears in it would work well for lubricating. Use some RTV to seal the bottom end of the gear box.

modifiedpowerwheels.com

Posted on Monday, March 27, 2006 - 12:20 pm:

GUNN check out www.modifiedpowerwheels.com again. I have added some details on the lights and the like.

I have a couple more videos up there as well. If you need more details on the lights, let me know I will post a video or some pics.

Also I added an area for you to upload your own stuff last night. Simple for now, but free space and bandwidth anyway.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2006 - 11:39 pm:

Steve,

Seems like things are a run a muck for you. You might be better off replacing the gear boxes, I have not had any trouble with the motor or gear replacements yet.

I am almosting wondering if you have to much play in the gear box. As yo uhad mentioned the pinion gear not matching up completely with the other gear. This may be causing the problem.

I think you have two options here, aside from the lighter fluid !

1 is to take the gear boxes apart and check the metal sleeve pins. The plastic wholes they go in, sometimes get rounded out or make a bigger whole. I have had to epoxy fill the while with the pin in.

I did this guy making sure the pin was in the center and proper spot. I then took vaseline and put it on the metal sleeve, So the expoxy would not stick to the metal sleeve pin.

I used plastic epoxy and let it dry, I also used a pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of jockeying to keep the pin in place and on center as it dried.

I did this on both sides, where the pins go.

Or you could just get different gear boxes.

How much grease did you use or was there enough inside to move around and re-use onto the gears ?

BTW, do you have the brake (white ceramic piece at the foot pedal connected ?

Not that it can relate to much to the problem you are having, but if it is not working right, it might be causing some drag on the gears. Just something to think on.

None of the power wheels I have, have it. I removed them all. The power wheel slows down just fine without it and it dont get damaged when the kids push them or drag them, when the battery goes dead.

Sporty

Roger

Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2006 - 10:07 pm:

Steve Why don't you make a mold of your gear and make a gear with carbon fiber. That would be pretty easy to do and stronger than nylon.

stevo

Posted on Sunday, March 26, 2006 - 05:54 pm:

just wanted to let you know my sons p.o.s spun another #3 gear today , i had finally fixed his gear problem ,having trouble securing the metal gear on the #231's , wouldnt you know it! he had a total of about 1 hour ride time before this latest setback.sure would be nice if there were a nylon repacement for the plastic gears ... oh well , i guess ill break out the lighter fluid!!!

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 01:51 am:

Hi Robert. I just remembered that 2 weeks after I bought my Barbie jeep back in '03 that I to did not have low speed anymore and reverse was kinda interminent in its use. Rather than going through a warranty claim with Fisher Price to get it working again and having to haul the jeep to a warranty repair center. I had a friend who knew how to use Ebay and he won an auction for me to get the shifter. I remember the auction won was like $5.00. I swaped it in and it has been working great ever since. Now since I have modded my jeep and it runs on 12V and 24V using 2 diffrent batteries and that same shifter. I noticed that since I added some 700 series motors when I go to use low speed I noticed that the left motor spins slower than the right. When in 12V high speed and in 24V turbo speed mode both motors are impossible to stall. Oh well. I figured for $5 bucks it was worth a try.
Who knew.

Ace.

Robert Clark

Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 09:03 am:

I recently bought another used Barbie jeep for $25 for my niece. It's in decent shape, but needs a new battery. I'll swap out parts to verify what is actually wrong.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 08:40 am:

I would bet its not the shifter at all, but the silver box, relay switch or foot pedal.

It is unlikely, that all the switched in the gear shifter dont work.

Robert Clark

Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 09:28 pm:

Thanks, that helps a lot. I actually do have a multimeter, but I think I'll just get a new shifter and be done with it.

Acetechno

Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 08:16 pm:

Sorry, my bad. That's a typo on my behalf. That web site is KIDSWHEELS.COM Their you can find the Shifter I beleive.

acetechno

Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 08:11 pm:

If both motors spin in forward fast. Then they are OK. The gas pedel is also OK because that passes the DC Voltage to the shifter then to the motors. So the only thing left is most likley the shifter has some nonfuncting parts. You could spend some time with a volt meter and test everything if you have one. Or just buy a new Shifter and swap it in. They don't cast that much. eBay stores are a good starting place. Or WWW.KIDWHEELS.COM They have all kinds of parts. They will even sell you the stuff Fisher Price says not to sell. Most of the time. Good Luck!

ACE.

Robert Clark

Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 06:01 pm:

I have a Barbie Jeep. The low forward and reverse suddenly stopped functioning. No wires have become disconnected. Is it likely to be the shifter or a motor?

Eric Gutmann
Username: Neoncowboy

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 12:24 pm:

Where can I get the 231 motors from. I just want to replace them on my son's quad to see what kind of performance he gets from that. I was also looking to increase the tooth count. He currently running with the stock motor w/8t and stock 12v battery. I am upgrading to a 12v/17amp ups battery to longer usage time, but my some wants to go faster.

Roger

Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 11:49 pm:

what kind of pinions do you need. I have some extras but they would be used. OEM parts taken from extra gearboxes.
http://ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php

steve

Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 10:57 pm:

o.k , were f--- can you buy new f-----g pinions for these pieces of s--t? I have about had it with these f------g set backs!I just wasted 12 bucks on pinions that are too small...and a week wait for arrival..is it a conspiracy ?im about to but a go cart and burn this piece of s--t! feedback please!

Elderboyd
Username: Elderboyd

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 08:21 pm:

My boy finally burnt out the motors to his Little Tikes Hummer. Any suggestions where I can get replacement motors. If a similar mod motor is out there, I'd be interested.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 03:14 pm:

Gunn,

You should be just fine with any 12 volt, low amp light.

I like the leds, due to low power consumption. Just think the more watts, the more juice needed.

To use the same battery, will reduce the running while they are being used.

Id set it up pretty much just like the standard fog light kit for a car.

Sporty

Gunn

Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 02:41 pm:

Seems like Power Wheels are still all the rage. What about the Little Tikes battery operated vehicles? I have a Hummer H2 and want to do some mods to it, but can't find any info out there. I'd like to add some headlights, taillights and though I culd probably figure it out myself, I'd rather get a double-check before proceeding...don't want to ruin what I've already paid for.

Sorry to see Chris go; he's the only one who answer my question so long ago...I only got back to this forum now. And as nice as http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com could be, there's not much meat there. Plus, once again, dedicated to Power Wheels. :-(

Wish I woulda known before buying that brand.

So on the lights...can I just use any automotive bulbs for headlights, or LED's for +12V systems?

Thanks,

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 05:48 pm:

I have been to the site a few times. I am kind of loyal to ryanhulls.com site.

But I do browse around though.

sporty

look at my boy go

Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 05:53 pm:

powerwheels guys uh sporty did you check out www.modifiedpowerwheels.com it's a cool site but your knowledge could make it so much better

look at my boy go

Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 02:22 pm:

oh yeah the tires fit right over the plastic ones..pump them up a bit center them and pump the up so they won't move

look at my boy go

Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 02:18 pm:

it's all stock..i just bought it 2 weeks ago at walmart for $250 canadian $50 for tires and tubes,$40 for quick charger

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 12:42 pm:

Look at my boy go.

What are some of the mods you have done ?

Chris has a good manual also, and www.ryanhull.com has alot of good tips and mods.

You still using a stock battery ?

Stock motors ?

Gears ?

sporty

look at my boy go

Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 12:27 pm:

hey sporty is there any mods u can suggest for a new kfx ninja 05 i think..i have 16' bike tires on it now

Eric
Username: Finaddict2

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 11:11 am:

Sporty - Yes I am using the stock 12v batt with an additional 6v batt. I see the voltage at the F/R switch molex but when I plug in the switch there is no voltage at that point. I guess I will have to trace the voltage a bit further. I will try using 2 other similar 6v batts and see what happens. That would prove your theory. Thanks

I have not taken the 4-wheeler apart enough to get access to the motors but I see the power from the f/r switch is going into something else by the motors, then the motors are powered from this device. Any Idea what this other device is?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 08:47 am:

Eric - Are you using the stock battery ? the stock battery has a built in fuse, you might be activating it. Other than that, I am not sure what might be going on.

Steve,

YOU are now a modder, in the unkown terrirory of put it in and see what happens.

Have not done that mod (9) tooth, Keep us posted on how it comes out.

Sporty

I learn from you on this one !

steve

Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 06:52 am:

i foundsome 9t gears .would they destroy my gear box if i swap them for the 8t., i dont know? feedback, all you real men of genius! Thanks

Eric
Username: Finaddict2

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 09:51 pm:

Hi,

My son has a Kawasaki KFX Ninja in which I would like to modify a bit. I tried to wire in an extra 6v battery to take it to 18v total. However, when I do this the 4-wheeler will not move. I'm certain that the wiring is accurate as I have tested it with a volt meter. Are there some mods I need to do with the wiring (reverse, low speed, foot pedel, hand throttle, ...) in order to add the additional voltage?

Ted Taylor

Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 09:49 pm:

Heat (torch) will release loctite.

I found #4-40 set screws at the local hardware store today. They also had the tap/drill bit combo as well.

However, I would be hesitant to but loctite on something this small. I don't think you could ever get it loose with the tiny allen wrench required for this size set screw.

Sevensandeights
Username: Sevensandeights

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 07:48 pm:

I found #4-40 set screws at the local hardware store today. They also had the tap/drill bit combo as well.

However, I would be hesitant to but loctite on something this small. I don't think you could ever get it loose with the tiny allen wrench required for this size set screw.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 01:13 am:

I was hoping someone who had done pinions, might have mentioned this.

When I did my pinions. And in the coarse of taking apart gear boxes.

I came across gear boxes, where the the pinion gear did fully mex into the other gears. I also found where it did not.

I then tinkered with the gear boxes. Since I had some that did and some that did not.

I came of up with two thoughts on the matter.

1 the gear box was suppose to have some play in it, or they were made with bigger variances from the production line.

2, acutally were suppose to completely mess together in the first place.

What I did, was I found that on each side of the gear shaft that hold the large plastic gear, it has the 1 metal rod that goes into the plastic on each side.

I found on some of the gear boxes, that this whole varied in size, either from the factory like this or from use. Not all the gear boxes I looked at were brand new. Only a few.

Well what I did, was I took epoxy plastic cement and put it in that whole. I then inserted the rod with grease on it. SO the exposy would not stick to it. Once the glue set in for a few minutes. Kept the shape of the rod. I pulled the rod out to allow to comepletely dry and so it would not cure to the rod.

I then put everything back to gether.

I have not had any gears fail from this, and I feel it has given a little more strength to the whole. prevents gear grinding and slipping and had provided a better mesh of the gears.

One thing I did find was I had to make sure that the surface was free of oil and grease and a light sanding with a small piece of 400 grit sand paper to ensure the surface held the epoxy well.

So now those that have not thought of this, now know I have done it and you are welcome to try it.

Sporty

Sevensandeights
Username: Sevensandeights

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 06:37 pm:

The #6-32 screws are a little big but that is the smallest I could find quickly. Lowe's didn't have anything smaller than a #8. I'm sure a local True Value or Ace Hardware would have something one size smaller - those places seem to have a bunch of "specialty hardware" drawers with all kinds of exotic stuff.

My screws are true set-screws so they dont have a head. There is a recessed allen wrench fitting in the top. However, it doesn't matter anyway since only part of the pinion meshes with the drive gear (roughly 50%). If you put the set screw at the bottom of the gear (closest to the motor), there is no interference since that part of the pinion gear does not engage the drive gear.

FYI - they did have the next size smaller tap and matching drill bit at Home depot but did NOT have the corresponding set screw.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 08:55 am:

Gee,

Hmm would would I buy if I could get a new power wheels.

Ya know, the kids check the isles out in the stores where the power wheels are. They really like the grave digger one. and the hummer.

But if i was to get another one, Id go with the grave digger, since the kids like it and i think it has a nice size to it, comes with those lights and just looks better than of some of the older ones.

Id stay away from the motorcycle ones. That about the only power wheel I dont like. We bought one and that piece of junk, chews up more wheels than anything we have ever had.

I think were on the 4th set of wheels. Cant seem to get more than a summer out of the wheels.

They are just to small and spin easy and dont hold up. There use to be a recall and when i first called about the tires failing. They replaced under warranty. Then I called 6 monhts later and they played stupid about it.

My guess, its such a problem, they dont even wanna deal with it. It would cost them a fortune to admit they messed up.

Sporty

Jason Huber
Username: Jasncab

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 12:57 am:

www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

Sorry Larry - the video wasnt mine. I have mine up there now. The first video was of some guy that added speakers to his PW and junk. Not my deal, but interesting for someone I am sure.

Also I talked with the hosting company and got the popups removed. That is annoying. If they had actually made some money off that junk I would have liked to be in on it! I guess one out of 100 sites they host probably gets some income. Anyway - they should be removed. Check out the newest video. It is rather simple, but a good explanation for beginners.

Give it another chance?
www.modifiedpowerwheels.com

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 12:25 am:

Hey Steve hear is a link to a guy on Ebay who might have something that works for you. Hope this helps.

http://cgi.ebay.com/USED-ROBINSON-RACING-8-TOOTH-32-PITCH-PINION-GEARS_W0QQitemZ 6041815245QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 12:17 am:

Man Steve Do I know how you feel. My wife gets all pissed at me too. She can't understand why spend all this money to mod a toy. Wow a #6-32 screw seems large to me. I deal everyday with this size screw. I use it to put electrical switches and plugs into the wall in houses. Is your plan to grind the head off the screw once done? Does nobody make a 32 pitch pinion that is the 8 tooth with a set screw already in it? I have a set of Traxxas Emaxx motors that I bought that have the same size shaft as your 231 motors do about 3mm. I found some metal pinions off Ebay for $2.30 each form RCBOYZ in Salt Lake City, Ut. Bolted up great and no problem. I'm sure Robinson Racing or Team Associated or Losi has to have what you are looking for that is a direct bolt on. Good luck with your project. Please post some pictures if you can. I would like to see the end result. I would pick a PW over a Peg. PW looks cool to me. More kid like. Peg. looks more like a toy you would ride at Disney World. I'm sure its cool for the kid who may live on a farm. Just my 0.02 cents.

steve

Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 10:32 pm:

great ,i finally found my 1/8 the inch set screws! problem is there is no way in hell they will self tap in the gear ....now i will have to find a tap thats 1/8 inch ... this crap is getting old! someone has to sell the exact motor with the splines on the shaft? it would illiminate so much headache! my wife is getting pissed because i cant fix this p.o.s ,.she has told me that she is going to buy my son a new power wheel.. sporty what would you get if you were going to purchase a new one? i would like to know what everyone thought on that matter are pegs better than powerwheels? thanks for all replys!!!

Sevensandeights
Username: Sevensandeights

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 10:12 pm:

I just bought some set screws tonight. They have #6-32 screws that are 3/16" long at Home Depot. They are located in the specialty hardware drawers in the hardware aisle. The also have a drill and tap combo made my Irwin in the tool area. I also got some Loctite #242 for peace of mind. $11 total!

The #8 pinions do not fully engage the gears in the the gear box. Only about 1/2 of the pinion meshes with the gear box so there is plenty of room to put a set screw on the lower 1/2 of the gear (closest to the motor) without having to grind anything down. You do have to drill through both sides of the gear though so that you can tap one side fully.

FYI - I initially used JB weld to hold the pinions on. One side held up fine but the other has given me fits. That's why I decided to go with a set screw.

Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 10:51 am:

Northern Tool, Auto Parts stores, Grainger

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 10:03 am:

True value, ace hardware. B;ains Farm & Fleet. Although the last time their they seemed to be changing in that area.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 06:33 am:

i myself cant find any set screws smaller than 3 mm... i think 2mm or 3/16 would be best..one tip ive been meaning to post..i;ve done away with the black retainer caps on the steering shaft and one side of the rear axel..Instead i drilled an 1/8 inch hole ,used a washer and a hitch pin ,it is so much easier to live with now! im going to try to find those set screws today,any suggestions on where to loook?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 11:45 pm:

I installed the gear to the shatf this way. Using the stock gear. I did not find a better way at the time to mount the gear and have it stay on.

My goal was do it once and be done with it. not having to worry about it slipping or coming off.

And I also felt, if I am gonna drill then i want to drill into the shaft to have it stay put.

I believe I mentioned that, you did not want to attempt to drill both at the same time somewhere farther down on the site.

The screw I used was so small and the drill bit was very tiny. I was not able to find a set screw small enough to do what I felt needed to be done.

I did not want to drill a huge whole in the gear. I also was worried if I could find a set screw small enough. that the soft aluminuim may strip out under load.

That tiny screw I used went right between 2 gears and I didnt have to cut or drill into any part of the gears.

Loco, if you have have a place that sells a set screws that small that will work well for that appilcation can you post that information ? One that is small enough to fit between the gears on the #8 pinion

I only looked locally & had no luck.

Sporty

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 09:02 pm:

Ya! www.modifiedpowerwheels.com Has a home made video you can click on and view. Has 2:19 of pure distortion of an audio track with an
UM-YA at the end. As soon as the page opens you get redirected to another POP UP site.

Good start. With a little time and efort and more creativeness I'm sure this will be a good success for him.

Has any one ever thougt of building a Power Wheels Rock Crawler? To get over bolders, hills, or what ever? Speed is great, but what's next? Or how about putting our kid in 2' deep slushy mud with their power wheels and see if they can pull out of it. We got snow video's and burn out video's Just a thought... We have a Grave Digger. How about a MUD DIGGER?!?

locolife

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 08:12 pm:

Ok, even if a set screw is needed, there really is no need to drill the motor shaft. If you drill the pinion and then thread it, the set screw can secured to the flat on the shaft. If you attempt to drill the pinion and the shaft at the same time, you will get an oblong hole in the pinion when you attempt to drill the shaft.

On the remote chance that you really do need to drill or remove metal from the shaft it is far easier to use a cut-off or abrasive wheel on a dremel.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 01:54 pm:

The site is new and nice. Welcome to the free information world of sharing.

I tried posting the link to my website, however it didnt show up once posted.

The pops ups are kind of bad though.

Once I get some time, and caught up on my current projects. I am hoping to get a few of us together and make a Power wheel mods cd or website.

I 2, liked chris's cd, I did feel there is alot of mods that have taken place in the last few months that are not out there in a manual or just easy to find to a non regular to the mods sites.

I just finished my Cubmobile manual for Cub Scout's. a 40 page plus, manual with tips, hints and mod tips.

Then my digital camera decided to die on me, So i am getting a new one here in the nest 2 weeks.

Sporty

Jason Huber
Username: Jasncab

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 11:17 am:

I created www.modifiedpowerwheels.com for the same reason. I needed some information as well as a centralized dedicated place the discuss powerwheels.

Check out www.modifiedpowerwheels.com and the forums link on the left when you get a chance.

I have posted a silly powerwheels video there from some guy. I have created my powerwheels video and linked it. I have only performed some simple stuff so far, but looking at tricking it out a lot more.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 10:31 am:

The stock shaft gear, will fit on the 231's, but will not stay fitted, you have to drill a whole in them and into the shaft to keep in place.

Unless you are very lucky and when you remove them from the old motor,they retain all inner diameter. I tried just the press fit onto the 231 motors and they did not even hold 2 minutes, It would have been great if it was that easy.

Thats why I had to drill and use a tiny screw to hold into place. Worked the rest of the summer that way and you would not believe its snowing out today. But I am sure it will good all this summer also.

The only time I saw a plastic gear fail was to muvh weight (rider in the power wheel) or the black attachement that goes on along with the plastic gear was missing, either broke or was previously played with and not put back on.

As for the drill bits, yes the shaft is hardened steal. I broke one, I was using a drill press and had to drill really slow. Also I had to clamp the shaft to be drilled or it would move on me.
Sporty

steve

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 09:51 am:

so the set screw dosn't need to be 1/2 way into the motor shaft to be secured enough for use? The other gear problem i had was the gear from an old #3 gearbox , the the plastic gear got damaged i think fom lack of grease? i had bought a new gearbox on ebay , it was the gear teeth directly in contact with the motor pinion gear., if you could get these gears made out of nylon they would be mucho tougher! thanks for the feedback!!!!

locolife

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 01:46 am:

Can't really tell from your post, but assuming it is your pinion that is stripped, the #3 gearboxes have 8T (or per Chris the earlier ones have 10T). I don't know what the pitch is on the gears, but you can roughly determine the pitch by measuring the diameter of the gear and dividing it by the number of teeth. Beyond that, you will have to search a hobby site like Tower Hobbies to determine which pinion will work.

FYI, the shaft on the 231's (and most 550 sized motors) is .1250 in diameter. I am sure Chris has more detail on the subject and you really should email him and ask before you muck up your motors

locolife

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 01:08 am:

Steve,
Whoa! Stop what you are doing for a sec. First off, if you have a #3 gearbox you cannot change the pinion size. Furthermore, to mount a 231 there should be no reason to drill the shaft. The 231's shaft already has the needed flatspot for the factory pinion.

steve

Posted on Saturday, March 04, 2006 - 11:18 pm:

i have a #3 gearbox , it was the gear that is turned by the motor gear, i was trying to find a replacement made out of nylon.the original is that cheap plastic ..if you could find gears made from nylon they would last forever! i am in the middle of installing the old pinion gears on the new 231's.. i had no problem drilling the hole through the pinion , but i am having a heck of a time drilling that hole in the motor shaft! that steel is unbelievable..im going to the depot sunday and getting 5 drill bits! p.s i know im suppost to only drill half wy through .. thanks for the info on the gear s Ted!

Ted Taylor

Posted on Saturday, March 04, 2006 - 04:12 pm:

I think it would put a huge load on the motors. With only one change ( 8t to 12t is a 50% increase) to gain that much(gears, tires, motors, voltage). 12-8=4t difference 4/8 WHich gear box and powerwheel do you have. Also, which gear is sheared in the box?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, March 04, 2006 - 01:58 pm:

The 231 motor, will run the other gears. Except some of us feel, that the 21 gear is to much for that motor, If you are using bigger tires. Than the stock size that was intended for that gear set up.

Since I have not tried different gears, meaning adding in a 12 tooth to a 8 gear, gear box. I do not know if it will work. Or how it would hold up.

would they match up ?

As for gear replacement, You would have to find a used gear box off of e-bay or a new one from the mending shed.

Or get friendly with a authorized repair center. Or talk fisher price into sending you one or selling you one.

Sporty

I would expect that battery you mentioned to work just fine. Length of riding time, I would not know. But not shorter than a 12 volt 12 amp.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 10:49 pm:

The gear is metal , and I believe the hole is 1/8th inch. the original gear has 8 teeth .. can a 231 push a taller gear ? I saw on the web site 12 tooth gears ,would that be to hard for an 12v 17ah battery to push?also, i had a gear failure awhile back, i was trying to locate a new nylon version replacement. i didnt have much luck.any suggestions?

Ted Taylor

Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 11:34 am:

1/8-40 NS thread drill chart http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm
If you can get a set of mic's or dial indicators to measure the parts you might be able to press fit them on without taping for a setscrew. I�ve always had many stock parts lying around to reuse. Sears carries mic�s and dial indicators but Harbor freight or WT tool is much cheaper. Do you still have your stock gear or do you not want to reuse it? I have always been able to repress the drive gears back on the stock motors. 5/1000 thousandths would be plenty enough to press fit with some loctite. Gear smaller than shaft.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 08:33 am:

231's is what I have on a couple of my power wheels.

U cant recall what size the shaft is, do you have a micrometer ? or a metric ruler ?

I know it wont be the 5 mm size as that is what I will be ordering for the 700 series motors I have.

See I used the stock gear off the old motor.1 of them was the 8 tooth.

Are you able at all to use the old gears ? are they plastic or metal ?

The plastic ones strip if the little metal bracket that is on the shaft is not used. The metal ones are better.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Friday, March 03, 2006 - 06:27 am:

sporty ,thanks again for the link, but im at a loss. i dont know what gear to order, what pitch etc.... i think the old one has 8 teeth can you tell me what to get , i just recieved 4 new 231's will they turn a larger gear? and i figured i needed a 1/8 set screw , i just wanted confirmation thank you!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:04 pm:

Steve,

The information was the best that I could give you.

All I did was take the motor and gear with me to the hardware store. Dug through different size bins to find the smallest screw that would fit. Then took that size and went and found the drill bit of that size.

Since I used the screw and I have no idea where I left the drill bit laying around at.

That was all the info I could provide. I just did it on my own, I had no other information to follow.

I do alot of different projects, So I have alot going on most of the time.

From Building Star Wars Light Sabers, Cubmobile, Soap Box Derby. Fixing portable dvd players. Video transfer, Vinyl Lettering and Heat Transfer.

SO the plate is full and I just try and point people in the right direction on what has worked for me. However There is a few people over on the www.ryanhull.com forum that are really pushing into alot of areas and giving some amazing information.

I commend loco, for not only doing motor comparisons but also taking notes and posting that information.

As all we modders have started to learn, there our alot of different ways to mod a power wheel and different levels of mods that can be performed. Not to mention the different thoughts and engineering that are involved.

My own personal thoughts are any tiem you mod. With adding more juice/ volts / amps to the stock motors or aftermarket should have some type of cooling fin, fan or so forth.

I have been tinkering with power wheels since 1998 and have had very good luck with my mods. I also learned quickly what works for us and what don't.

Any time you get into modding, its unkown tertitory.

You just dont know how long it will last, or where other items will fail due to those mods.

We are our own testers. It's always great to see engineers get involved.

I can just imagine the hours of study the power wheel people have put into their product.

So my point is, we all have our own ideas that work or don't work.

Lets try and not throw stones at one another. I hate to see the forum shut down.

I believe it can help provide people with enough information to help them upgrade or mod there power wheel.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 06:38 am:

Ted, Sporty said to drill a small hole with set screw .. vauge ,no diffinative directions..size of screw, drillbit etc.....I mean what the hell!,I don't have a comprehetion problem ..I asked you a question , and you proceed to cut me down and insult me , I admit I should not have called you a loser and I apologize! any way just looking for some detailed answers,Ted now ,what size drillbit and what size set screw? by the way thanks sporty for the link ! I can tell you are a nice person trying to help illiterate , stalking ,sickos like myself!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 11:24 pm:

This is a link to where gears/ pinions can be found.

http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp#5mm%20bore%2032%20pitch%20pinions.

Ted Taylor

Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 11:04 pm:

Steve, there is nothing I could explain to you that would be correct. You would be unhappy with any answer I could provide! You asked the same basic question back in January. Sporty gave you a good answer and a link to Ryan�s site to fully answer your question. I can only assume you have a reading or comprehension problem! Maybe your illiterate! Maybe if I drew pictures for you! If I were Chris you would creep me out. You sure have an obsession to defend him. Your up at 6:53am and thinking of him! You might be a loser. What do you do with his cd? Must be the hole in the cd! Uppercase lowercase. My name. Do you have a voodoo doll or a bunch of letters cut out of the newspaper? I have no pet rabbits weirdo.

http://www.ryanhull.com/

http://www.slimjonesy.com/

STEVE

Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 06:53 am:

DEAR tED, SINCE YOU WANT TO FREELY HELP . AND I WOULD APPECIATE ANYONES HELP. WHERE CAN I FIND A NEW SPUR GEAR , THE ONE THAT ATTACHES TO THE MOTOR SHAFT ? AND HOW DO YOU TED, PERSONALLY INSTALL IT? WHAT IS YOUR METHOD, AND WHAT HARDWARE DO I NEED thanks ted for your free advice

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 09:26 pm:

Hey S.F.B.G., I bought his Cd for ideas not to brush up in my understanding of how a DC circut works. More or less to use the ideas and links he offers. For the $13.00 it cost me I have saved all kinds of time not having to do research. After all time is money. For what it is worth, I think Chris did a fine job in the layout and information provided. I have nothing to gain in backing him up or the promotion of his CD. BTW, my senior project was the digital design of Buffered ATM switchers. If you have a router, hub or switch in your house then you have one. Thanks for your concers and my education.

Shortfatbaldguy

Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 01:38 pm:

Teds right Chris�s help sucked. You guys are retarded for arguing on the Internet. Larry you have a BSEE degree and had to buy his cd. Your senior design project must have really sucked! Copyrighted material. Who owns the image on the front of his cd or the ones in the diagrams? Are they his or used with permission? Can you copyright Mattel�s copyright? i too live in a neighborhood of million dollar home with $60,000 cars. Who cares! Do your neighborhood dogs wear Bling Bling! Just my opinions
http://www.dsscentral.net/uploads/upload/other8%252edb/office%20space%20stfu.jpg

Ted Taylor

Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:13 am:

Here is a bit of information that will recover about $300 dollars for anyone who bought a Safety First Fire Truck. Santa brought it to my son last year. Within 3 months, it began to fade and turn pink. I have friends that have had the same thing happen to their children�s trucks also. The color fading is a manufactures defect. I called Safety First to find out how the problem could be fix. I figured they would give me hard time and tell me it was user error and I would try to settle for new decals. With the new decals, I could have the truck painted and make it look like new again. Also, I called them after having it for 9 to 10 months (almost out of warranty). I told the customer service rep the problem and was put on hold. After about one minute she came back to the phone and said, � you have a choice between a new corvette or a full refund of the purchase price of the fire truck.� I was not given any hassle! I wanted another fire truck (there were not any at their warehouse), so I took the refund. To get either of the options you do have to send parts from your vehicle (one wheel, seat belts, and battery charger). A refund check came within 10 days of sending the parts. I was able to modify the truck and have it ride able again in a short time. We did use the money to buy another product from Safety First. We bought the Batmobile. Safety First customer service was a very enjoyable experience for me.

Ted Taylor

Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 01:35 am:

I think he should money for his work, time, and effort. But he is on this site to promote his cd, not to freely participate in advancing yours or anyone else�s efforts. If you read one of his earlier posts, he help the guy and then made him swear he would not share the knowledge gained from his help. The forum was set up to help people not to try and profit and advertise to them. Chris rocks, if you pay him! There�s not much Chris is going to learn about power wheels by being on this site. If his main help is self-promotion, what is the point of him being here? One ad is enough. An ad at the top, bottom or side of the site would probably work well for him, not 20 throughout his posts. When my son first started with PWs, like Chris, I wish there would have been a web site or cd that I could buy that had all the information on it. Sorry for what will sound very Pollyanna. People helping each other through the sharing of information. That is the idea behind this forum. SHARING! Most of us will never meet but we still end up have a friendship with each other. How much of a friend is someone that always wants money for helping. The intention of this forum was free help. Read the first post from Paul Miller. Then read everyone else�s. There is only one person who expects compensation for their help! Nobody likes pop up ads and most of his posts are of about equal value.
I have no negative intentions or motivations. I wouldn�t try to sell my help to anyone on this forum or any other help forum. I hope Chris will participate and have the same expectation as everyone else. To help not profit!

Paul Miller�s post

Posted on Monday, February 25, 2002 - 02:53 pm:

I know this is a bit off topic here, but I did read a post mentioning Power Wheels batteries for a ride on train...

I am looking for Service manual, Wiring diagram,battery voltages,parts list, etc for any of the Mattel Power Wheels battery Powered Ride On Jeeps, trucks, etc.

Mattel, is utterly useless, and seems to think they're guarding some sort of "National Security" info.

I have retrieved from the trash or been given 3 of these. 1 Wrangler Jeep, 1 Barbie Jeep and a single seat 4x4 truck. All are in some sort of disasembly, parts missing, etc....

I have 3 grandchildren and I can't afford to buy these expensive things so I'm hoping I can salvage, at least two of them.

ANY help\info would be MUCH appreciated!

You can contact me at pmiller91@comcast.net

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 12:22 am:

I to think Chris rocks!!! I bought Chris' CD and it planted all kinds of idea's in my head. If he want's to charge money for it . Great for him. And more power to him. Thank Chris for being a pioneer in a field most of us would not give a second chance. I have emailed Chris a few times at home and he was always happy to give opinions and advice for free, even befor I bought his CD. Is it such a crime to earn a living and make money. Last time I checked we all do it. Some people sell Cd's others work for someone else and clock a 40 hour work week. Chris said he has spent well over a $1000.00 to mod his PW's. Now lets figure out what his time is worth or Ted your time. How much do you make per hour at your job. I'm sure Chris has 100's of hours put into researching a lot of this and who pays him to do this? Is it you Ted?!? I don't think so. I know I am new to this forum and I hate to read all the negative. And I hate even more to post it back so the whole world can read it. My hat is off to Chris and Ryan. For making this world a better place. I have taken Chris' ideas and put them to practice and have had excellent results, I have decided to mod them diffrent a little. In thinking my way is better, but even if it was or wasn't, I would never knock someone for his ideas. Good or bad. I'm about $100.00 into my mods and a good 96 hours into the research end of it and am having all kinds of fun. And so what if Chris uses Railserve.com as his free Blog. The person who must pay for this site must not care. Looks like people have been posting PW info here for some time and looks like to me that this guy must not care eventhough he is paying for the bandwidth. Goto Ryanhull.com and he is asking for donations. So what, If he makes some money at this good for him. Ted if I were you I would perfect all the mods and put together some KIT'S and sell them as a package deal with complete instructions. Then people like me would have more respect for people that live with so much negativity in their lives. What do I know I have only been in the electronics industry for the past 15 years with a BSEE degree. BTW, I will take that 2 pages on quantum physics now.
AGAIN CHRIS YOU ROCK!
WILL YOU ROCK! I hope you break the world speed record in a PW some day.
And Ted I think that is great that you help kids that are handicaped or otherwise could not have a PW. That's more than I can say I would do. All my friends and neighbors seem to have lots of $$$ by the standards in which the neighborhood I live in is. Most people drive $60,000+ cars and homes sell over a million for something in the 1800 SF size. Giving away my PW when my kids out grow it was never something I considered untill now. I always helped the guy who stood out in the parking lot day in day out at Home Depot looking for day work.
Enough Said.(:

Ted Taylor

Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 04:28 am:

Steve, there�s a group of about 5 people on RailServe that consistently post? I think that is about right. Yet, about every post he makes he plugs his cd. Everybody knows he sells the cd. How many times does it have to be repeated? The information he graces you with is available on other sites. Sporty, Ryan Hull, or Slimjonesy and most anybody else on the site would help without relentlessly peddling a cd. It might be worth the money if you are going to do much more than change a battery or increase to 18v. But being condescending because there is only one way to modify the power wheels, the Chris Bischof way. I only put the links to the other site because they were interesting. I also thought the joy stick control could be useful, if you had the extra money to help a handicap child. I watch a girl pedal her bike past my home every couple of months. She is unable to use her legs. She uses her hands. She is just one of the children that I have met that I wish I could have modified one for her. If I personally come across an opportunity to help one of these children, I will help. My son has been riding PWs for over well over 2 years. There are about 14 PWs at my home. We have given away about 15 to kids that were not going to have the chance to have one. I also included the battery. Over the past 2-� years every power wheel I have found or bought, I have either fixed or saved the parts to fix another one with the intentions to give away. So, you might call me a loser. I would not worry too much. I am sure Chris�s arrogance and need to sell cds won�t keep him away. He is the one that decided to remove his cd selling enlightenment. What on a PW requires 15 pages of figures and text to explain? In 2 pages of text I could give you pretty good basic understanding of quantum physics. If he fully explained how to do a modification there wouldn�t be a need for the same basic questions. He gives a partial answer and then tells you to go buy his cd if you want to understand. If you are happy with the information you receive, you must be one of the people he sends the personal emails to. I bet Chris is a real nice guy, but in my opinion, if you are going to be on this forum, you should freely share information like everyone else. Like you said, Chris is the most knowledgeable. So, why is he on the forum? To answer questions he has about power wheels! Stroke his ego or sell cds? If your intentions are to sell, you should be at the top of the web page with the other ads! If you are on the forum to share information or learn, then you should do so freely! Not to hold back information and be condescending of the information other people provide. That is my point.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 01:37 am:

I hope the drama ends soon.

I know I and Chris have had our differances.

But Chris does have a good cd. For the price its a good deal.

The information on that cd can help someone who knows very little about modding a powerwheel.

Gives them plenty of options and choices.

Ted,

those mods our out there on the edge. Meaning inventive, creative and refreshing.

I don't have the money to do those mods, but it was pleasant viewing of them.

Our the college students going to do some low cost mods ?

Sporty

steve

Posted on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 12:50 am:

chris . you have been the most helpful person regarding any question i have had about my sons powerwheel , bar none !ted you are a loser, i personally posted at least ten questions , i dont remember you answering one ... chris on the other hand did! probably eight , so thanks ted for pissing off the most knowlegable person on this subject ! and by the way Ted, his answers cost me a big fat nothing! TAHNKS AGAIN CHRIS !YOU ROCK!!!!!!!!!!

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 09:55 pm:

Ted, this is the last post I will ever make on Railserve. If you will look at my responses to questions you will see I attemped to answer most of the questions posed to me.

When the answer requires 15 pages of figures and text, I'm sorry, but I'm going to have to refer them to the CD. Especially if I have already sent them personal E-mails and figures detailing the modification and tried to explain how their figures (that they had copied from someone else) were incorrect.

Please post your E-mail address so that from now on, all Power Wheels modification questions can be directed to you. You are up.

I am out of here.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Ted Taylor

Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 08:51 pm:

You are correct! You do not have to help anyone but yourself. We are all on a forum to help each other with a mutual interest. The help you provide is a link to your web site to sell a cd. If that is the only thing you have to offer the forum, you should do as other advertisers and pay for it. You are using somebody else�s bandwidth for your personal gain.

http://www.bme.unc.edu/~rlg/rehabDesign/reports/2001/jeep.htm
The above web site is of zero value to you because you cannot make money off of it! I think someone with a handicap child or relative would be very interested! I know I am interested. If I had known of the web site a couple of years ago, I would have helped make one for a friend of mine. The ability to modify a power wheel for the enjoyment of a handicap child is of great value to many less fortunate than you and me.

http://www.i-zapp.com/e-quad/equad_features.htm

You stated that you had spent over $1000 modifying power wheels? So, 1000 dollars must be too much for anyone else. Is this forum not about modifying! That's right! The web site does not help you sell your cd.

I have seen parts of your cd before. It is not that special! If someone does not know how to change the battery, what are the chances they have the tools or the ability to do the other modifications. The true answer to any question on this forum from you is BUY MY CD

I hope you make a lot of money selling your cd. I believe you should pay for your advertising like any other company, if you are not going to provide any other useful help than a link to a site to buy your cd. I have no interest in continually reading your advertisements. I think you need to pay RailServe.com for the advertising they have provided but that is my opinion as are my other statements.
Looking forward to another response for help like

RailServe.com Forum: Power Wheels Info
If you can't figure it out, I'm very sorry. Not my problem. Do you see why I sell a CD? Chris Bischof Southlake, TX http://UNGN.net ...

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2006 - 03:50 pm:

Ted, you are right about one thing, I don't need the money. I also don't NEED to help ANYONE.

You obviously haven't purchased my CD. The LAST thing my CD is about is learning "how to cut a couple of wires to replace a battery". It says that right in the Ad for the CD. It even has a shifter wiring diagram linked in the ad. It's about making Power Wheels more fun.

The links you posted are at least 4 years old and have almost zero value to someone modifying a Power Wheel. That E-quad cost $1000 to build in parts alone. Stuff like this sells more CD's than anything I can say, so thanks for posting them.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
UNGN.net

Ted Taylor

Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 10:19 pm:

Before buying the cd i blew my batteries up, my powerwheel ran away, and the post man imprenated my dog. Thank you for the cd! The cd stresses safety. We know that safety is the most important thing when you show how to make a cheap plastic vehicle go faster and jack it up about 8 inches. Why buy a cd to learn how to cut a couple of wires to replace a battery. Especially when they enter a forum (for helping people) to only sell a cd and then are condescending to people who freely give help! He really needs the money. You can tell he lives in a rough neighborhood with that security fence he has.
http://www.cox-internet.com/drspiff/CARS/PW_jeep.htm

http://www.acm.uiuc.edu/sigops/eoh01/pix.html

http://www.bme.unc.edu/~rlg/rehabDesign/2001.htm
A real Modification
http://www.i-zapp.com/e-quad/equad_features.htm

http://cesartherobot.beverlyunderground.com/pictures.htm

Larry Kelly
Username: Acetechno

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 02:41 am:

Hello everyone. Newbe here. I have received Chris' CD and it is much cool. I have done the high speed motor swap with the Titan 550 motors and the kids loved it. I then did the Nitro switch using a SPDT relay. Cool thing is I retained the 12v 9.5AH battery and wired in a 18V dewalt battery. Now the smiles are burned into their face's. This worked out great since I had a spare lot of 10 of them in the garage. I would get about 7 mins. of 18V speed. And power slides and burn outs are very exciting to watch. Don't have a rader gun to check speed, but to give an idea I have to do a pretty fast jog to keep up. I recently got a 24v 16Ah deep cell battery from a Zooma Go-Ped Scooter off Ebay. It is 12" long and 5" high and 5" deep. Fits great bolted under the seat on the Wangler. Rather than running a relay to togel between batteries I opted to convert the the jeep into a 3 speed, 4 if you count reverse. Ok what I have done was replaced the 550 motors with these ones from this "battle bot" web site. 2 - 24v motors spinning over 30K RPM with shipping cost about $25.00 pr. The battery was $50.00 W/ shipping. Battery charger was $5.00 from Ebay. So low and high speed off the stock 12v battery is retaind back too the day I put the Jeep together. (Or now I must say back together) I got 2 SPDT relays and cut both wires comming off (or from) the speed shifter to the motors and wired them in. The "NC" side of the relay is the 12V stock wiring and "NO" side is the postive side of the 24V battery. Of course I had to "Y" off the positive side of the battery to each relay that goes to each motor. I am using inline 50A fuse's, the big fat one's, like in car stereo's at each motor. Then I just tap-splice both battery negatives together to complete the circut. Next I had to wire 12V to the Nitro switch. Thinking how was best to do this. I figured if I did the straight forward approch, she would figure out that if she hit the nitro switch and not use the gas, She could do some pretty wicked burn outs and just tweek the gear boxes back to the dark ages. So where I cut the motor leads I also tap-spliced over to the nitro switch to pick up my 12V to trip the relays. So the only way she can get 24V is she has to already have her foot on the gas pedel in high speed (5MPH)and then press the nitro button to get a 24V speed. Doing it this way I still retain the breaking feature without having to goto 2 pedals for a break. Heat sinks for the motors are on their way as well as I need to goto Radio Shack to get some 12V fans for added cooling. The kids have not driven the jeep with this mod done yet. The jeep is in the garage on blocks. It has been tested on blocks and thus far it is working as intended. I will post results once testing with kids in jeep is done. This mod is going to need some traction bands at least on the front tires and maybe the rears as well. I have the #7 gear boxes with 19 tooth pinions. If this works out to be something that lasts then I will upgrade to 21 tooth pinions and new gear boxes. -Larry

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 10:26 pm:

STVO,

www.ryanhull.com powerwheels forum, has info and if i recall some pictures of it.

However, I used a small set screw and small drill bit. I bought a few bits, cause I did break one. when they are that small they break easy.

I used the same gear, i was using different motor. Once I drilled threw the gear (just to the center) I then put it on the shaft where it needed to be placed. I then drilled into the shaft 1/2 way.

Then used a self threading tiny screw and screwed it in. Then I took a dremil and carfully made it flush.

I drilled in between the gear teeth.

If you need a gear for the shaft. Chris's cd has that info on it and also there is info at the other forum.

I hope this helps some.

Sporty

stvo

Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 06:38 am:

once more , how do you secure the spur gear from an old motor to a new one? a set screw ? what size drill bit ? what size screw? chris do you have any thoughts on this ? everyones info is mucho appreciated!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 05:42 pm:

One of the other forums, there is someone whi has been posting info about motors, different makes and sizes. some good info. On the test8ing he has done. www.ryanhull.com

sporty

Andreas Eitschberger

Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 02:09 pm:

Chris -

yes, thanks, the information was very helpful. Of I go then to Radio Shack! :-)

Andreas

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 02:08 pm:

chris, just how much slower is a #231 than a super 6 volt? If you dont know ,thats cool . is there any way to modify one of these replacement motors for more performance? also do you know how many more rpms a #231 can turn than a stock 12v motor?Your knowledge is truly appriciated regarding tese subjects! thanks

The 231 will run about 7 - 7.5 mph in a vehicle that will run 7.5 - 8 mph with Super 6 volt motors so they are pretty close. the 231 is the closest replacement motor you will likely find.

The motors are designed to be throw away so modification is hard unless you have experience rewinding DC motors.

The 231 spins about 22K - 24K RPM unloaded on 12 volts, while a stock 12V PW 12 volt motor spins somewhere between 14K and 18K unloaded.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 01:59 pm:

Hello all!

I just bought a Barbie Lamborghini (2nd gen) without a battery. While looking for one online, I found this place (heehee). I got Chris' CD and will do a couple of mods (12V upgrade, lights, to start.) Problem is: this car was part of the recall and it still has the old style connector. I could not find any answers if the connector is the problem or the entire wiring. Since I want to upgrade to 12V with a generic battery, I was going to rewire anyway with heavier gauge wire. This being the case, should I even be worried about the recall?

Anyway, I also picked up a 2 seater 12V Wrangler... so she can have one to ride while the other one is in the shop... :-)

Thanks in advance,

Andreas

The recall was really a non issue on the super 6 volt vehicles. Vehicles with "H" connectors were still sold by Power Wheels, post recall. The "A" connectors are much stronger and will withstand more amps than the "H" connectors, but if you keep the "H" connectors clean and free from oxidation, they will handle 12 volts fine. It's when they get corroded and then heat up during use that they become a problem.

If you rewire it, I recommend to do it per TT18 to reduce the shock on the body and have low speed only reverse.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Andreas Eitschberger

Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 11:01 am:

steve

Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 10:37 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 09:32 pm:

I truly recommend on 18 volts adding a heat sink. They will not last. Just wrapping some hollow copper tubing around them will help reduce the heat. The plastic fin inside will become brittle and break and the armature contacts have plastic on them also inside the motor.

I bought a 12 volt 20 amp powertron but have not used it yet. as winter is still here in illinois.

I would just exspect longer run time and less slow down after 1o to 15 minutes or ride time. But will know more in a month or 2.

sporty

Peter Nemanic DC

Posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 03:31 pm:

The Extreme Machine Lives!!!

After replacing the two toggle switches in the shifter it runs like a champ. I found room for 3 (6v) batteries. 18v was more to my son's liking. The motors were warm to the touch but not hot (his CAT powerloader (super 6) will get very hot at 18v). Is heat the issue when running over-voltage? If so, it seems to be ok. Am I missing anything? Where is a good place to look for gears? When this set of batteries gives up the ghost I plan on getting the e-bay special SLA 12v 18ah. Has anybody had long term experience with these (powertron etc.)?

This board has been great.

Peter

fatboy

Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 10:42 pm:

I know that replacement gearbox's are available now. I was wondering has anybody seen about just fixing their own gearbox with new gears? Maybe some type of metal with bearings?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 07:57 pm:

Peter,

I have a eliminator and xstreme machine, they are about the same.

I would not recommend 18 volts, without a heat sink. If you can find room for 3 , 6 volt batteries.

I use a sla 12volt 12 amp battery with a 30 amp fuse on it (Postive)

They come with 16 tooth gear boxes. You can add 19 gear boxes, for even faster speed, however with glitches of blown fuses, 21 gear boxes.

I would not run no 24 volts on those motor, they will cook in a hurray.

Only known issue I know of is, more of a steering issue or lack of it i should say.

Faster you go with these with the stock front wheels, the turning becomes very poor.

Sporty

Peter Nemanic DC
Username: Nemanicdc

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, February 04, 2006 - 06:46 am:

I seem to be on a roll. First I was given a CAT Powerloader (I run 12v most days (7 mph), 18v (9.5 mph) when my 3 y/o is feeling adventurous)

I was given an Eliminator in need of some rehab. It was kept outdoors for many months and some of wires near the motors look like they are in poor shape. Does this model have any hidden flaws or known problems I should investigate before I start retooling. The switches test good but I do not have a battery with the right connector. Do these take a special battery? I was planning on buying several UPS SLA batteries off eBay. Will these work for this model. Does it run at 12v normally. Can it take 24V. Other than e-bay where is the cheapest place to buy SLA batteries.

Any help would be appreciated.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 11:31 pm:

Can you tell me the difference between a super 6v an a regular 12v?

The Super 6 volt motors run somewhere between 24,000 and 29,000 RPM no load (at 12 volts), while the Regular 12 volt motors turn between 15,000 and 18,000 RPM at 12 volts.

Here is a Johnson DC electric motor with Similar specifications to a typical Power Wheels 12 volt motor.

Here is a Johnson DC electric motor with similar specifications to a super 6 volt motor.

Johnson also has an XML page for both of these motors, accessible here. Click on "products" and in "Advanced search", put BP03027 and BP03028 in the "motor code" field. The BP03027 is the 12 volt, the BP03028 is the 6 Volt. There, you can vary the voltage and see the effect on RPM, power, etc, but I cannot direct link to these pages or they won't work, so you'll have to click on them.

The 231 motors are a good substitute for the super 6 volt motors, but the Super 6 volt motors are slightly faster on 12 volts.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 03:44 pm:

chris , you seem to know
a heck of alot more than anyone else on this blog! Can you tell me the difference between a super 6v an a regular 12v?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 10:27 am:

Steve,

I honestly, can not give you a accurate answer. On what is the differance in the motors.

I have not been able to find a way to compare the numbers between them.

I think Chris may know alot more than I do on this one.

But I would think that there is no particular major differance in them.

But I could be wrong.

sporty

steve

Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 06:10 am:

endless questions! heres one more, what is the difference between a super 6v and a regular 12v motor?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 12:02 am:

steve,

Ya I ran into that before. I had to use a vise and clamp. I also used a steel plate with a slot in it. To slide the shaft and gear into/ ontop of the thin plate.

I clamped the plate with the vise. so the motor could move downard. nocking out the shaft from the gear.

Then I used a hammer and a piece of round steel that was just slighly smaller than the shaft.

However, when i went to re use the gear it would not fit tightly on the other motor, it would spin.

SO I drilled a small whole in one side of the gear and 1/2 thru the shaft and used a very small self theading screw. onece in. I carefully grounf off the head of the screw. So the gears were all that was showing and not the screw head.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 10:45 pm:

how in the sam hill do you get an old gear off a burnt motor, inquiring mind want to know!

andrew morrison

Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 01:52 pm:

and i thaught i was crazzy guess what i did i hooked up 24volts ! to the barbie lambhorgini
it flew forwards and almost made my daughter fly off the back and it can do pop a wheelies!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 02:40 pm:

Toast !

Ya that motor cooked, Buy any chance did you have some heat sinks on it ?

I have not lost a motor yet with heat sinks.

Hopefully we can find some of the 650 motorr (12) volts. The 7.2 volt perhaps has some differance from the 12 volt also.

Sporty

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 11:55 am:

FYI... Permax 600's wont last running 18v. This morning my son cooked one. As you can see in this link http://www.aaconsult.com/permax600.jpg it appears that heat has deformed part of the commutator.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 08:03 am:

Heat sink is something you add to the motor, on the outter cover to help keep the motor cooler.

I used old heat sinks for pc's.

If the gear box got hot. Then it could be from going pretty fast, or low grease. Or to much weight.

I have only ever had 1 gear box fail and had to do with the kids, going forward and then going to reverse until a dead stop. they like to do that alot.

The plastic flexes just enough to cause the gears not to line up and it is plastic, breaks some what easily.

Hope this helps some,

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 08:00 am:

The #3 gearboxes are very weak and prone to stripping. Do not use traction bands with these boxes.

Any 12 volt #3 gearbox you find on E-bay would be geared similarly to your super 6 volt gears (unless you have the early 10T pinion), but your motors are faster than 12 volt motors. Check the pinion count and if its the same and your pinions are in good shape, I would reuse your motors.

I would recommend adding grease in your replacement gearboxes. Lack of grease failures are fairly common.

I have seen failures in new, unmodified Power Wheels due to a lack of factory applied grease. The 16T Silverado/elimintor #7 gearbox is VERY prone to premature failure from lack of lubrication. One of the spur gear bearing shafts will actually melt its way out of the gearbox case.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 07:12 am:

do you think my gears melted because my motors were running to hot? specifically ,where can i find a replacement motor gearbox for a super 6v?o when i took the gearbox apart to find out what broke , i noticed that the grease was sparse at best , should i repack the new gearbox with grease when i get it? also does it seem like the same gear fails on these things? thanks

steve

Posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 07:00 am:

what exactly does that mean? where can i find a replacement gearbox?heat sink?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 11:40 pm:

Ouch,

didnt get the heat sinks on intime.

ya, the 12 volt motors are about the same.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 11:10 pm:

interesting problem to report! i have already burned up a gear in my sons adventure4x4. where can i find a replacement gear box with the same ratios? ive seen 12v on the net , is that the same as super 6v? help!

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:16 pm:

I am fairly certain Chris has produced higher speeds with his extensive PW experience, but I was able to get my son's Jeep to 13.5mph with $80 worth of mods.

- used 21T gearboxes $20
- Permax 600 motors $18
- Traxxas pinions $8
- 3-6v batteries $35

However, it runs very hot due to the high amp draw Chris described. I will need to make additional mods to keep the heat down or reduce the amps.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 08:47 pm:

Steve,

Hmm, I think us modders are still trying to get to that point. I have bought some motors but have not yet installed them yet.

The fastest set up I have had is the 21 tooth gears and gear box on the eliminator and 18 volts. I dont have a gps but my best guess was getting over 10 mph. Fast enough that the steering was not so hot.

You get to certain point, then you have to go to rubber wheels for the traction, then you also start to be concerned about the steering linkage.

Some of us have encounter the blown fuse tho on that set up.

my goal is to have all 7 power wheels over 8 mpp. I have different ages of kids, so they will not all go as fast at 10 mph.

Aside from the gentleman that put a weed eater engine in one, I have not heard of anyone breaking 15 to 16 mph yet..

I know im not interested in 2 much more speed. As the ko-kart is sitting waiting for them to be able to drive that.

Thats why I got into the mods, really, aside from costly factory batteries.

Got a go kart and it was just to much for the kids. I changed the gear got it slower, My oldest said he was scared of the engine.

So I thought since the power wheels were to slow for them and they were bored with thay speed.

The faster speed has re excited them and i think brings them closer to the go-kart.

I also feel there is going to be a point where you get into the plastic gears ripping up.

I don't see that being to far off either.

There is always the factor of how much money you want to put into a $200/$300 plastic toy.

Some of the power wheels I bought new, some for $20 at a rummage sale.

Being patient and getting deals and used and extra parts are a plus in keeping the costs down.

I have such a wide variety of kids projects, I juggle alot. Cubmobile, My son is going to be racing Soap Box derby this year.

We just got down with the Pine wood derby, he got 3rd place. But this year he told me it was boring.

Seems anymore, there is just so much competition with anything kids do these days. Puts alot of pressure to give your child a equal chance.

Well didnt mean to ramble. I'm glad the power wheel is faster and you are please with it.

Sporty

steve

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 06:31 pm:

thank tou all who helped me with my questions about changing my sons 4x4 adventure 6v. needless to say it is now a ridiculacly fast 12v machine!... does any one know the absulot fastest power wheel combo? thanks again !

Dean Carlo
Username: Deancarlo

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 05:41 pm:

Thanks Chris, I think I'm going to bid on one of your CD's pretty soon. I'd really like to understand what I'm doing.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 04:38 pm:

Chris,

I would like to say. I found your post very pleasant. Great reading. Informative and down right impressive.

Look for my bidding on e-bay for your cd.

Sporty

Eric Gutmann
Username: Neoncowboy

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 04:33 pm:

Locolife, I would like to see abot the different motor mods you have made. I have an old PW Harley bike to mod and also am looking for an PW ATV to Mod for my 4yr old. I did mod his old PW bug to 12v but he has out grown that.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 03:27 pm:

Hello everybody. I am new to the world of Power Wheels and after reading your posts I had a couple of questions. Right now we only have a 6 volt Ready set Go Kart (Blue Battery) and a new Peg Perego Polaris Sportsman 400 (6 volt, 1 speed, no reverse). Now after reading your posts, there is still alot I don't understand about amps and all, but I have learned that these little motors can take more than the 6 volts they're getting. Questions: With the little go cart can I just add another 6 volt blue battery in series to get 12 volts or do I have to modify anything else? With the Peg Perego can I just put the Peg Perego 12v battery in? The connectors seem to be the same.

Dean, putting another 6 volt battery in series (or substituting a 12 volt battery) should work fine for either of these vehicles. Since neither have a reverse, the instability problems with high speed reverse (especially on a quad) won't be an issue.

If the Polaris has dual motors, it can be rewired for high/low speed and "low speed only" reverse without too much effort. Single motor vehicles, like the readysetgokart can not be, however.

And Lastly, Chris, do you cover some of the basics about amps and volts on you CD? It would be nice to understand the science behind all of this

The later mods on the CD get more to the science and theory behind the mods. If you don't know anything about Relays, LED's, resistors, You WILL after doing a few of the mods. The purpose of the CD is to show you how we did something and to encourage you be creative with your particular vehicle (and develop your own unique mods)

The original CD mods are more of "this should work if you do it this way" than getting into the specifics of an Amps/volts discussion. Less than 1/2 the CD buyers appear to be true technojunkies or even "Tim Taylor" types. Since We've about exhausted the really simple stuff, going forward, the new mods on the CD are going to be more "science fair" and less "soccer mom".

If you remember that Amps really only become a problem when the vehicle is tying to accellerate to it's full speed. Cruising around at the vehicles top speed on smooth, level ground the motors may only draw 5 amps total.

But... hold them back and they will start drawing more amps. The more they are held back, the more amps they will draw. This is why a vehicle that is spinning its tires draws less amps than one with traction bands at the same speed. The Stall amps on a typical Powerwheels motor is around 50-60 amps. Hold a motor from moving and the 30 amp battery circuit breaker (or vehicle thermal breaker) should pop pretty rapidly.

Aftermarket motors can have stall amps over 100. Without some type of breaker you can see how the wiring in a vehicle can melt without even a "short" in the wiring.

RPM's of a DC motor are roughly proportional to voltage. Double or triple the volts and the speed will also double and triple. At it's new top speed, it may only draw a little more than the 5 amps or so it did at 6 volts as it now does at 18 volts... but it requires much more accelleration to get to it's 2X or 3X top speed...so Many more amps are required. This is the main reason why run time is reduced with higher voltages.

This is also why a brake pedal mod will noticeably extend run time. The fewer times a vehicle is braked to a stop, the less accelleration is required to get it back up to top speed, the less AMPs it will draw.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Dean Carlo
Username: Deancarlo

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 01:08 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 11:07 pm:

I wanted to add. Most of the models have a black plastic housing.

Before I did even 1 mod. I found upon looking at them. That where the plastic was touching the outer motor. They had melted some.

I removed them. I ran without them, that was my first try before going to the heat sinks.

If you find a heat sink that will fit on the unit from liek tower hobbies or someone, please let me know.

I have not had the ones I designed for a reason, they want $1,000 for the first 100 of them made.

The cost I would have to charge for one, is much higher than I felt they would ever sell for.

I work at a place who has a snc machine, but have had no luck, having them made there.

Sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 10:58 pm:

I have seen a cooler motors with heat sinks on them.

I have not actually did a temp test. But the finger test has shown less heat.

I had looked into a reader once. but little more costly than I had hoped.

When I ran out of heat sinks from old computer boards.

I then just some copper tubing, wrapped around the motor. which I think works just as well.

I was loosing 1 motor a month due to heat. After I went this route. I have not loss 1 motor as of yet.

I actually designed a heat sink just for the power wheel motors, but have not had any made yet. Just all on paper.

Alot of the ones I found on e-bay or tower hobbies, said they would not fit. So I never bought any of them to try. I just contacted them with the size of the motor.

I always leave the wholes to the fans open.

I have taken apart a couple of the failed motors, most often I found the fan had failed, heat caused the plastic to brake and the motor to fail.

The armature pieces also due to hear had been fused to the shaft.

I will add this was just using the stock battery on some of these motor failures. NO MODS !

I found this in the power wheel dirt bike and the newer black and green 4 wheeler.

The motors are inclosed inside the plastic housing of the vehicle.

The only way to see if they are getting warm easily is to take part of the shell apart,

I went ahead and added the heat sinks to them and have not had any problems.

I went ahead on any of the mod units, added them.

When I was playing around with the 18 volts, I added them, and even with the 18 volts, the heat sinks got warmer than usual.

I just didnt stay with the 3, 6 volts. ride time was shortened, faster but ride time just didnt last as long.

When I tried the water cooled project. I found they dont get warm at all, if i ran the cooler all the time.

So I just tell the kids after 4 to 5 laps around the house to turn it on for 1 lap and then back off.

Sporty

http://home.insightbb.com/~powerwheelmods/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 08:58 pm:

Chris,
I agree, going the relay route seems like the only logical solution. I will likely add them tonight and report on the results.

Cooling the motors is my next concern. Has anyone determined that there is any benefit to venting the motor compartment? How about clip on cooling fins? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJTG1&P=7 Or a motor fan? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLUD3&P=ML

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 07:57 am:

Relays are a good option, but I avoided them because I felt the same high load would then leave the shifter switches exposed to possible failure. Have you been able to determine what load those switches will handle? Ideally I would like to supply the motors with whatever load they can handle.

You can replace the shifter or dash switches with two 40 amp relays, too. It's not too hard to do and positively locks out high speed reverse on older models or converted 6 volts without shifters.

I hate having to repeat myself so often, but... it's on the CD.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

roger

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 12:53 am:

http://www.geocities.com/alexpowerwheel/

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 12:42 am:

Chris,
Relays are a good option, but I avoided them because I felt the same high load would then leave the shifter switches exposed to possible failure. Have you been able to determine what load those switches will handle? Ideally I would like to supply the motors with whatever load they can handle.

Re the foot pedal switch, I think we should just agree to disagree. :-)

Although it would be relatively easy to determine its proper function by simply cutting a viewing port into one and applying a high load, its just not worth ruining a good switch.

By the way, there was no transfer on the contacts, I added a bead of solder to reduce the clearance lost by the melted crossbar.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 11:22 pm:

Locolife,

I have, instead of running the red power wire to the foot pedal, but have ran the ground through there. It still breaks the connection and makes the connection.

I did this, so I would reduce the failure of the foot pedal and with the inline 30 amp fuse. I have not had any problems with the 2 models that I have done this with.

No blown fuses, or warm wires, with using 12 volt 12amp hour rated battery.

Now, I did find a silver circuit breaker rated at 27 amps. So not all the models I have are 12 amp circuit breaker.

I am gathering buy the run time, that I typically am drawing between 18 to 23 amps on SLA 12 volt 12 amp hour battery.

However, when I went to different gears. I was seeing a much shorter run time. More amps needed for the larger gears.

More draw in turning the wheels and keeping them turning.

I believe I was getting a draw of 30 to 38 amps. However the 30 amp fuse did not always blow.

I am planning on installing a 50 amp fuse and watch closely and see if the wires get warm or any thing fails. I am also going to install a 12 volt 20 amp hr battery.

Id like to try some type of surge protector or a amp reducer. Instead of just going to a circuit breaker.

Since I have not came across specs on the motors, in regards to how many amps they will draw and the limit you can go before they will fail. Also with some type of like calculation with reduction of life span of the motors in cordination with amp level.

I know the heat sinks or water cooled motor has worked and kept the motors cooler.

So would be interesting to also see information on that as well.

Been waiting for some modder to come along, who has really played with the gearing.

Someone who has changed the gears around inside the box and created a different ratio.

Thats going to be someone, who has the ability to make some plastic gears or gear boxes on a cnc machine. Or comes across a variety of plastic or nylon gears that would match up.

sporty

Also, I am have been working on a power wheel mod t-shirt.

interested in seeing 2 of my t shirts out there, go to e-bay and search (cubmobile)

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 11:14 pm:

Loco,

The Switch SHOULD self reset, but yours appears to have had some serious Amps put to it.

Is that metal transfer on the contacts? If the contacts locally weld themselves the heat will distort the metal contactor instantly and the switch is ruined (atleast it ruin's off, the old switches could ruin on).

The best way to bypass the switch is to have it control a 40 Amp automotive relay. If that isn't enough, you can put multible relays in parrallel.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 10:19 pm:

I just re-read my prior post and think I need to be a bit more specific in my description of the switch failure. I added arrows to the image to aid in the identification of the sub-components.

The two red arrows on the image indicate the contacts that warped and needed to be straightened. The outer portions of the horizontal bar (white arrows) have lost their temper and will not retain their downward bend. If you look closely, you will also notice that the plastic has melted around the center portion (blue arrow) of the horizontal bar and is about to completely break off.

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 09:30 pm:

Chris,
Now I see where you are coming from. I think much of the confusion is stemming from your use of the term "circuit breaker". A circuit breaker is by definition a resettable device. True thermal circuit breakers like the ones in our homes or on aircraft, can be manually or automatically reset once the heat dissipates. The plunger switch depicted is not a true circuit breaker, it is in effect a fuse, i.e. non-resettable.

The reason I took my switch apart in the first place is because it overheated and warped the contacts. They do not bend back nor were they designed to. In fact, now that the heat has changed the temper of the metal the contacts wont hold their proper positions at loads far below 30amps.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 08:15 pm:

Loco,

The horizontal contactor bar in your Picture IS the thermal circuit breaker. At a 30 Amps and above, the bar heats up, bends upwards and breaks contact.

No matter how hard the child pushes on the pedal it won't make contact until it cools and bends back.

Sorry for the condescending, but Sporty has a real way of bringing that out of people.

And I mispoke earlier about ALL Power Wheels having a Thermal Circuit Breaker. I should have said All 1998 and newer do as some of the early/mid 90's 6 volt Power Wheels didn't.

Power Wheels like Sporty's Eliminator (that he claims has none) actually has 3 circuit breakers from the factory.

1. In the battery.
2. In the Foot Pedal
3. A hidden one inside the battery connector

I also hope no one takes Sporty's advice about External Thermal Circuit breakers, either. The smallest one I have ever seen on a Power Wheel is 18 Amps. Step 2 put 15 Amp ones on their vehicles and the damn thing will shut off if you look at it funny.

30 Amp Thermal circuit breaker should be a minimum especially for a modified vehicle. Autoparts stores like Advance Auto sell them for about $3.00 in sizes from 10 to 50 amps.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 06:02 pm:

Chris,
In an earlier post, you mention the "foot pedal switch bypass mod" on your CD. Assuming the mod is exactly as described, how is the vehicle operated? I am looking for a higher amperage alternative to the stock plunger switch.

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 05:30 pm:

Chris,
I am surprised you have chosen to adopt a condescending tone with me. I will assume that you mistook my post for someone else's.

Regarding the switch, here is a link to a picture of the internals.

http://www.aaconsult.com/switch.jpg

In an earlier post you mentioned that the newer models have "a 30 Amp Circuit breaker built into the Plunger foot pedal switch". You will see from the image that mine does not. The 30amp rating stamped on the side is simply that, a rating depicting the maximum amperage that the switch will handle.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 11:49 am:

Hay ••••••• !

did the light bulb ever go on your head, that you have a problem admiting when you give out bad info ?

Good lord dude, get your head out of your •••.

You gave bad info on the wiring and all you like to do is attack people.

Also appears pretty good at avoiding responding to miss information.

Now dick head, all 7 of my power wheels dont have no 30 amp in the foot pedal.Came that way new !

6 of them had 12 volt 12 amp silver box, relay, ciruit breaker.

1 from the factory, model did not come with one, as per fisher price stating.

You said they all have one, will Mr. High and mighty lord forbid you be wrong about something, cuz you wont ever admit it.

Then you say they all come with them. They do not !

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 10:55 am:

The earlier system is probably better as the internal contacts of the new switch appear flimsy and prone to early failure.

Flimsy... like maybe it can be easily be deformed by heat?

You just might be on to something, there.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 10:34 am:

On another forum,

someone has taken apart there foot pedal and did not find a 30 amp circuit breaker.

But what they thought was it just acts as a cut off swtich, completing the circuit for the wires. but no 30 amp in it.

Chris,

Do you have a better with one with the 30 amp in it ?

Sporty

Before I answer any more of your questions, let me ask you one.

Do you have any Idea how a thermal circuit breaker works?

If you do and you cut open a newer style Power Wheels Plunger style foot pedal switch that clearly says "30 Amp" on the side, a little lightbulb in your head just might go on.

You don't have to believe me or even have to cut one open. Put a 50 Amp load on one and see what happens.

I think the foot pedal switch bypass mod has been on my CD for at least 6 months...

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 01:19 am:

And finally, I tried out a few of the popular motor/battery modifications this weekend and below are my results.

GEARBOX - MOTOR - TIRE SIZE - VOLTAGE - BATTERY - MPH
16T -- STOCK -- 13. 5-- 12 -- STOCK -- 4.5
21T -- STOCK-- 13.5 -- 12 -- STOCK -- 7.1
21T -- STOCK-- 13.5 -- 18 -- 3/6V -- 10.9
21T -- PERMAX 600 -- 13.5 -- 12 -- STOCK -- 8
21T -- PERMAX 600 -- 13.5 -- 18 -- 3/6V -- 13.5
21T -- 231 -- 13.5 -- 12 -- STOCK -- 8
21T -- 231 -- 13.5 -- 18 -- 3/6V -- 11.7

The Permax 600 motors had short round shafts upon which a flat spot had to be ground for the set screw on the pinion while the 231's had longer shafts with the flat's already machined.

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 12:59 am:

The earlier system is probably better as the internal contacts of the new switch appear flimsy and prone to early failure.

Do the earlier ones hold up well to 18v or 24v and high current draws?

I am actually looking for an alternative switch if someone has found one.

Locolife
Username: Locolife

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 12:46 am:

I just had the pedal switch on our year-old jeep apart this weekend (cracked open the sealed plastic) and found no relay, it is simply a switch that mimics the operation of a SPST momentary switch and relay.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 11:42 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 01:52 pm:

I want to make sure I understand this correctly.

Chris,

The circuite breaker on some models is built into the foot pedal ? the black plastic ?

IS not the silver box, 2 prongs on it that us usually next to the foot pedal the ciruit breaker / relay switch.

Now most of our power wheels range for 1998 to 2004.

However aside from the exliminator, they all had a 12 volt 12amp relay. was stated on the side.

And I called Fisher price on the eliminator. as I mentioned previously. Said it did not come with one.

So, Is the relay/ ciruit breaker not the silver box ?

But is built into the foot pedal on and off switch ?

Want to make sure we are not talking about 2 different things.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 01:38 pm:

All Super 6 volt and 12 Volt Power Wheels have a 30 Amp Circuit breaker.

Older Power Wheels have a separate 30 (or 27) Amp Thermal Circuit Breaker, newer Power wheels have a 30 Amp Circuit breaker built into the Plunger foot pedal switch.

You can distinguish between the old and new Pedal switches by the words "30 Amp" on the side on the newer switches.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 10:49 am:

Not all power wheels come with a circuit breaker.

I have found this out when in contact with Fisher price. The Power wheels eliminator did not come with one.

So not all units have the circuite breaker, but most do.

Also not all wiring is rated the same in amps.

Different quality of wires, is not always rated the same amps.

meaning 10 guage or 12 gauge

I have seen this before. So keep in mind.

A have also seen Ciruit breakers stick open or stick closed.

There for can allow more amps to be drawn from the battery.

Those motors will suck as many amps as they can get.

Better to have the higher rated amp wire, to ensure no melting or hot spots in the wires.

AGAIN, NOT ALL POWER WHEELS COME WITH A CIRCUIT BREAKER !

Radio shack does sell them, for around $8 to 12 dollars for a 12volt 12 amp circuit breaker.

This is typically what you find in your power wheels.

Hot spots on wires will form, if you run a more amp rated battery.

Can cause weekness in the wire shielding and maybe melt thru in some spots of the wires.

I mention this if you decide to run a Battery that is rated more than 12 amps per hour.

For the price of $3 to $6. You can add higher rated amp wires and be safe.

Even if you run a 12 volt 12 amp battery, those motors even with the ciruit breaker in them are drawing more than 12 amps.

If the wires are not rated for 25 to 30 amps. The upgrade.

auto Zone or Wal-mart, and many other places. Look on the back of the wire package. It will tell you what size and amp rating for that wire / wires.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 10:15 am:

chris ,thanks for your help!I have just one more question, does the shifter on my sons adventure 4x4 have the space /slot etc.... for the extra switch.... i have seen these swithes on line for 1o.99 , or a whole shifter for 17.99 . seems a much better deal to just buy the whole shifter assembly. thank you so much!

You should be able to buy the switch locally for less than $10.00. Someone had them on the net for 2 for $10 a while back, but I don't remember where. The cheapest on the web I have found now is $9.00 each. Allelectronics.com has the white version of the pushbutton switch for only $1.00 each, but of course these won't work in the shifter.

This is why even broken Power Wheels have value. These switches can be easily rebuilt with about 10 minutes of work (it shows how to do this on the CD) to be as good as new. Keep this in mind the next time you see a broken power wheel setting by the trash at the curb or at a garage sale for $10.

The shifter in your vehicle is a 12 volt shifter with the high speed lock out screw still in place. Remove the screw (that appears to be the pivot of the shifter... don't worry, it isn't) and the shifter can now operate the new high/low switch. The Loop of white wire shown on the top of the high/low switch in the diagram goes toward the word "white" embossed on the shifter.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 06:49 am:

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 07:01 am:

CHRIS , WHERE CAN I FIND A SIX POLE ROCKER SWITCH? SHOULD I JUST BUY A 12V SHIFTER? DO YOU RECOMEND BEEFING UP THE WIRING? THANKS!

Your local authorized Power Wheel service center will have them, probably cheaper than anywhere on the net. You can buy a shifter and get two of the shifter switches in the deal, but if your shifter is still functioning fine, you just need one switch.

There won't be any problem with the factory 14 gage wiring and 12 volts IF you leave the thermal circuit breaker (or circuit breaking foot pedal switch) intact. This will also save the motors, too, when they are overloaded. It's when you start hacking the wires and leaving off stuff you need to keep is when you run into problems. If the factory wiring is in good shape and all the switch contacts are clean and non corroded, the factory wires will take 12 volts easily.

For the new wires from the high/low switch to the motors, I would run 12 gage, though. This is more than you should ever need @ 30 amps max and 12 volts.

ONE MORE THING ,DOES THE IN LINE FUSE GO ON THE POS WIRE?THANKS AGAIN!

It can go in either, but it's standard practice to go into the positive lead.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

STEVE

Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 06:10 am:

ONE MORE THING ,DOES THE IN LINE FUSE GO ON THE POS WIRE?THANKS AGAIN!

STEVE

Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 06:09 am:

CHRIS , WHERE CAN I FIND A SIX POLE ROCKER SWITCH? SHOULD I JUST BUY A 12V SHIFTER? DO YOU RECOMEND BEEFING UP THE WIRING? THANKS!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 03:08 pm:

Something to keep in mind.

I have found that when driving on flat smooth surfaces. The Power wheel will be at its fastest.

However, Grass,dirt,the common lawn. Speed will be less than what it is on pavement,black top/cement.

Since most of the time, most people have their child drive the power wheel in the yard. Some parents do have big enough drive ways or private drives for there child to have those higher speeds.

However on our 2 modded ford f150 power wheels. In driving in them on grass with stock motors and gear boxes.

The top speed is much more around 5 to 6 mph.

Although keep in mind that out of the 2 power wheels. 1 had a 8 tooth gear and gear box.

The other power wheel, I dont recall what the stock gear box was. I know the gear on the motor was 8 tooth.

But the kids are enjoying the different gear box and gears.

I recently bought adobe suites premuim. Can ya say ouch !

Bit as I learn the program and purchase a much better digi camera. I will be able to do some better pictures and illustrations.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 10:56 am:

CAN ANY ONE TELL ME WHAT KIND OF SPEED INCREASE I CAN EXPECT WITH A 6 TO 12 V CONVERSION ON MY SONS AVENTURE 4X4 F-150? ALSO CHRIS B,IS THE WIRING DIAGRAM ON YOUR SONS WEB SITE A HI /LO REV ?THANK YOU ALL

The Super 6 volt adventure 4X4 F150 will run approximately 3.5 mph max speed. Converting it to 12 volts will increase it's max speed to about 7 mph, which is noticiably faster than a regular 12 volt Power Wheel.

The Shifter wiring diagram on my website can be used to rewire your vehicle, except the right and left motors would be switched. The diagram shown is for #7 gearbox vehicles, which have an extra gear reduction step vs. the #3 gearboxes in your vehicle, so the output rotation is opposite. The remedy for this is swap the sides of the gearboxes. (Right motor in the diagram is the left in your vehicle)

Any power wheels 6 pole rocker switch can be used as a second switch in the shifter, though the shifter ones (curved black) work a little smoother than the dash ones (straight white).

The wiring diagram will give two speeds fwd with low speed ONLY reverse. 7 mph reverse in these vehicles can be very dangerous as the steering becomes unstable and the vehicle can be flipped over very easily.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 09:19 am:

Steve,

You will likely see a increase of speed of 2 to 3 mph with the battery upgrade / conversion.

Do you happen to know what gears are in the F-150 ? number 8's ?

There is a few things to think about. in my view no 1 single mod will do it all for you.

If you are looking for speed.

I got into mods, for a few reasons.

One, I simple could not drag myself to the store to pay for a battery that was way over priced. $54 for a 12 volt battery ! Yikes.

OR a single or 2 6 volt batteryes for about 1/2 that of a 12 volt.

However the SLA battery out there on e-bay for around $12.00 not including shipping offered a much better replacment.

With on some Powerwheels, just adding a inline 30 amp fuse.

I have gone to either adding better motors, different gears to making the power wheel faster. Instead of just amping up the volts or amps.

Sporty

STEVE

Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 07:01 am:

Ryan Hull

Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 11:54 pm:

I believe the Vector brand of chargers, (found at Walmart, etc.) are a great tool for charging these little batteries.

I have one, and it offers 1,2,4 Amp charging, which allows me to use it on the Powerwheels, as well as the cars, tractors, etc.

Honestly, I would suggest to anyone with a powerwheels to throw that charger that comes with it in the garbage. It has no control/limit circuitry, and if you forget about it, your battery is toast.

Steve, as far as your battery is concerned, I've never seen that one, but the AmpHour rating seems like it would work well. You'll definetely get some additional runtime. But where are you going to put it? I'm still contemplating a trolling battery for one of my custom Jeeps. Upside: 120AH, downside: FRIGGIN HUGE & HEAVY

But, all in all, the kids will love the fact that it will last appx 2 hours before needing recharged.

And yes, I know, it poses the risk of a spill if the Jeep over-turns. But keep in mind, the Jeep is stock, no mods for gears, motors, etc. And I sincerely doubt it would tip over.

But in any case, you could always put/fasten a small blanket or other absorbing device attached to the underside of the "hood" of the jeep to catch any immediate spills should the impossible happen. That should catch/trap anything before it poses a risk.

The only other problem I foresee, is that the shaking/vibration of the Jeep may cause an issue. That one may have to be tested to know for sure.

Until then, you can alwys stop by my website for tips and help from others trying the same things, and talking about the same issues. And, it's all free.
- Ryan Hull Powerwheels Modifications Forum
A place to chat, talk, post questions, pictures, movies, etc about powerwheels. All free for your use, and no Ads.
http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php

Good luck!

Ryan

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 11:40 am:

does anyone know if a super 6v has the capability to charge a 12v battery? also i was looking into buying a rhino 12v 17ah battery , are these good batterys?

A 6 volt Charger WILL NOT charge a 12 volt battery. A battery charger works by having more volts than the battery it's charging.

If that battery physically fits in your vehicle, it should work fine. You could charge it with an automotive style "trickle" charger at 2 amp/hour or less and you should be fine.

Any Power Wheels 12 volt charger will work, too, but will take longer to fully charge (since that battery has nearly 2X the capacity of a typical PW battery.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
SOuthlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 08:05 am:

super 6v charger..........has the ability.....

steve

Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 08:03 am:

does anyone know if a super 6v has the capability to charge a 12v battery? also i was looking into buying a rhino 12v 17ah battery , are these good batterys?

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 09, 2006 - 01:47 pm:

I know this is "Power Wheels Info", but does any of this apply to Little Tikes battery vehicles? I have an Hummer H2 and what brought me here was the post by 'John Masters' complaining about steering problems with it that did not get a reply. I'm in the same boat. Want to mod it if possible to fix it.

Also, there was a post about rubber tires, with no reply. I'd love to get more traction. Certainly that is not Power Wheels/Little Tikes specific.

Any websites dedicated to Little Tikes mods? Haven't been able to find any yet...

I'm trying to geta hold of an H2 to modify but have not as yet.

The Power Wheels Silverado has similar steering problems. High steering effort is usually caused by the following:

1. Negative wheel offset. When the wheels are turned, they swing forward and back, instead of simply rotating around their centerline. Most ride on vehicles are designed this way, though some manufacturers like Peg Perego and some newer Power wheels reducing the negative offset for easier steering. There isn't much to be done to reduce this on your vehicle except narrower tires.

2.) weak front end. This is the #2 cause of high steering effort after negative wheel offset and when combined with negative wheel offset, it's effects are doubled. Vehicle weight + negative wheel offset can result in negative camber (top of the tires point in). As the tire swings through an arc, the caster built into the spindle "lifts" the front end of the car as it tries to straighten the cambered tires.

Older Power Wheels had very tall spindles that keft camber at bay. In an effort to reduce wheel offset, power Wheels (and other MFG's) have gone to shorter splindles, jumping out of the frying pan and into the fire.

Strengthening the front end with additional steel reinforcement will help reduce the increasd steering effort caused by these camber changes.

3.) Short Spindle steering arms. Many ride on vehicles have spindle arms that are too short. A two seat silverado used the same length steering arms as a 1 seat eliminator. If the arm length was doubled for the silverado, the steering effort would be reduced almost in 1/2. The turning radius may be increased, but it may be worth the trade off for little drivers. I'm still lookning into an easy way to accomplish this.

4.) The fact that in high speed there is no differential action between the rear tires. Both push full speed ahead at all times. The tire on the inside of a turn actually receives additional voltage from the outside tire in an attempt to keep it from slowing down. Terminal understeer is a evident when pushing big volts in a Power Wheel. Traction bands on the back actually make this problem worse.

Possible assists:

A brake pedal would allow the vehicle to "coast" through a turn without slowing down too much, greatly reducing turning radius. More speed (more volts or faster motors) would give the vehicle more oversteer (due to rear tire spin). The More oversteer the vehicle has, the less steering effort the vehicle will have (the child will be mostly counter steering).

Rubber tires as deliverd would actually INCREASE steering effort. They are heavier and actually have more negative offset than the factory wheels. I recommend removing 2" from the back side of the wheels to reduce the offset, but this isn't the easiest thing in the world to do and weak front ends will still result in some negative camber effects.

Sorry I can't help with you specific model. I would first try to strengthen the spindle mounts with more steel. Traction bands (in front only) may help a little, too.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Gunn

Posted on Monday, January 09, 2006 - 11:04 am:

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 08:00 pm:

The Copyright on my CD is for the content of my CD, meaning you cannot post the files contained in it or even duplicates of those files (like photographs or photocopies of those files).

You can however, write out the mods in your own words, draw your own figures, create you own photographs, etc. As long as you don't use ANYTHING of mine, I'm fine with it.

I don't OWN Power Wheels modifications, but I PERSONALLY designed, developed and performed EVERY modification contained on the CD plus probably 20 more that aren't on the CD, yet. Other people sell Power Wheels modification CD's. I'm sure mods similar to those on my CD are also on their CD (I wouldn't know). As long as they aren't stealing my photographs, diagrams and text, I wish them much success.

If anyone wants to have a free website dedicated to modifying Power Wheels I have Zero problem with this, either. When they post unsafe, hacked up wiring cartoons where the end user is an unsuspecting 3 year old, I do have a problem with this and will call a spade a spade. I'm very sorry if this offends people.

Rather than me telling someone what's wrong with their diagram for the 5th time or "fix it for them", how about I just tell people to steer clear and leave it at that. They don't HAVE to take my word for it. I'm sure there are lots of other places people can turn for Power Wheels modification information. Ryan Posted 3 of them and there may be many others, I don't know.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

www.slimjonesy.com

Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 03:41 pm:

ok Look man all i did was ask.No need to be a dick about it. I ask a simple question and you have to go and be a smart a$$.
Besides if someone wanted to they could just alter your ideas and pictures and make there own disc. You dont OWN "power wheels modifications" last time i checked. I see you have alot of cars also, Do you sell your ideas to them on about making your cars go faster? Or do you have copyrights on every mod you do to your cars also? Last time i checked telling someone else another persons idea "in there own words" for free was NOT illegal. As long as they dont use the EXACT wording and EXACT pictures im sure its totally legal.
Oh yea,and i never posted shlT on my website that was on your CD.

sLiM

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 12:14 am:

Also how is it a violation of copyright if the info on that CD was shared online? Do you have a copyright on it? I dont see anything on the CD i have. Maybe i missed it but i dont see anything.

sLiM

What part of "No portion of this Document may be duplicated or distributed without the written consent of Performance Automotive" don't you understand, slim?

Go ahead and post all you want Slim, but if your ISP shuts down your website the next day, you now know why it happened.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

www.slimjonesy.com

Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 11:26 pm:

wow what did i miss? LOL

Also how is it a violation of copyright if the info on that CD was shared online? Do you have a copyright on it? I dont see anything on the CD i have. Maybe i missed it but i dont see anything.

sLiM

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:28 pm:

Steve,

Also, the wires from battery and the motor batteries, I recommend 10 gauge wire. If you got to 18 volts or a 12 volt battery with alot of amps. For example. Some have used Lawn Mower battery or Motorcycle battery.

The stock wiring can handle upto 25/30 amps just fine.

But the motors will take as many amps as it can, and pull it from the battery.

Melting and softening and weaking of the wires and potential fire if the wires are not replaced with a thicker guage of wire.

In one of the other ford f-150 power wheels. I run (2) 12volt sla 12 amp batteries for longer run time. I am was able to remove some plastic and stand them on there end to fit in.

How I do this - Battery 1, I connect the Positive wire from harness to battery 1.

and add in another wire using connectors and connect to Positive of Battery # 2.

I then take Negative wire from harness and Connect to Battery 2. With another connecting wire going to Battery # 1, Negative.

I got my connectors from autozone. I just connect the 2 wires that came together into the connector and squeezed together.

However I have seen 3 wire Connectors. Where they each have there own spot, instead of combining 2 into 1.

Sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:15 pm:

Steve,

If you go to 18 volts. With those motors. They will over heat and possibly fail.

I recommend heat sinks and thermal grease to help reduce heat.

I went to a water cooled system to run 18 volts.

I had over heated 2 motors outside of a week before adding those items.

I took one of the motors apart and 2 things failed.

1 the plastic cooling fin inside the motor, heat caused it to melt/ brake.

2 The armature fused to the shaft. I may not be saying the exact word for it. But there is 2 seperate metal bend piecs that act like a spring with what appeared to be a mini magnet or some kind of carbon pad.

I dont recommend if you go 18 volts. doing the following -

12 volt plus a 6 volt. It drains the one od the batteries fast and has been known to ruin one of the batteries.

3 - 6 volt batteries work fine, but seem to drain alot faster than 1 regular 12 volt battery.

I have seen on the mending shed (web site), a 18 volt battery. But was very costly. It was for a peg prego, but would work.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 10:27 pm:

please ,again can someone tell me what is the best battery combo for an adventure 4x4 f-150 ,what is the maximum ah that can be run on 12v and 18v setup? im converting it from super 6v to what would be best....thanks, and i hope everyone can better getalong in 2006....

You can run as much ah that will physically fit in the vehicle. 10 to 17 ah batteries provide the best compomise between size, weight and cost.

Converting it to 12 or 18 volts is pretty easy. It involves adding a new switch to the shifter and slightly modifying the motor wires.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 10:20 pm:

I will also add, that I recall that I said I would change it, if you provided that info. However you did not !

again that info is for a 6 volt to 12 volt non shifter type as stated on the website !

the info you posted and let me see is, 12 volt shifter.

There is a difference !

sporty

I give up.

Its not going to be on my conscience when some dad modifies his 3 year old's Power wheel and he rolls down the driveway and into the street because there is no braking circuit. He got what he paid for.

Please go back and reread what I told you 4 months ago. It's all there, spelled out in black and white. Compare a "Series/Parallel battery" wiring harness to the shifter wiring diagram I sent you.

Maybe a lightbulb will go off, maybe it won't. If you can't figure it out, I'm very sorry. Not my problem.

Do you see why I sell a CD?

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 09:20 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 05:46 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 05:42 pm:

I would like to further add, that you never gave me a diagram for the non shifter. Yes the shifter one, you did.

which I never posted that as per to honor my word and to respect you.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 05:30 pm:

I think the miss understanding is my wiring diagram is not for a shifter !! for the push button one ! As stated on the web site.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:32 pm:

Since when did this become a a-ss-kicking forum for you to run-down others who are trying to help? If you have a problem with a diagram, simply tell the owner of the site what you see wrong, and I'm sure he'd fix it immediately.

I did tell him what was wrong with the diagram... After I first had explained to him how to do it (see post August 23 and August 26) and then He says he did what I told him and then he puts the crap wiring diagram on his website that isn't even close to what I told him to do.

See my post on Sept 28 to get an idea on how to properly wire a Power Wheel to use a single 12 volt battery. With this figure and my advice to Sporty, I thought maybe he could figure it out what to do next.

He E-mailled me three months ago and I thought I explained to him what was wrong with the diagram and yet, three month later, it's still there.

The bottom line is would I want my kid riding around in a vehicle wired per the diagram on Sporty's website?

Not only no, but heck no.

Ryan Hull

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 12:46 pm:

QUOTED From Chris Bischof: "Take my word for it, the wiring diagram posted on your website, helps NO ONE. It Cuts wires THAT DON'T NEED TO BE CUT. It Discards things THAT NEED TO BE KEPT. It lacks an even basic understanding of how Power Wheels are wired. It is hack with a capital H."

Since when did this become a a-ss-kicking forum for you to run-down others who are trying to help? If you have a problem with a diagram, simply tell the owner of the site what you see wrong, and I'm sure he'd fix it immediately.

Sure sporty's mods might not be perfect, but I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess yours aren't either. At least he's not in here peddling his CD everytime someone has a question and running down others who try to help. He offers his insight and advice for free. Take it or leave it.

In fact a lot of us do that. I host a forum for Powerwheels Mods (http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php) and people can search, post, ask questions, etc. All for no cost, and no CD sales on Ebay.

You say you've sold Thousands of those cd? Great! Congrats on that accomplishment. So now that you've made a cool $13,000 on PW cds, how about contributing to the effort by letting people get the cd for free. (i.e. Download) You want to give it away to have others take down their site to "prevent you from having to fix others errors" so this would let you avoid that step and simply have that info available from the start.

In fact, and in using the same tawdry stunt you pulled on Sporty, I'll be willing to host your CD image on my website for you for free. No cost!!!
All you have to do is take down your horrible website.
See? It's that easy!

Sporty has probably posted more times, and helped or advised more people than anyone on this mailing list, and it's a shame that you felt the need to publicly demean what he's doing with a cheap stunt like that.

To be honest, if your advice is anything like what you offer others who help here, I dare to say that it's probably money better spent on something else. At least then it would be appreciated.

I want to personally thank everyone on this list who helps others. I know personally that Sporty and SlimJonesy have a lot of good ideas, and I have had a few ideas as well to help out. I think Slim has a website and discussion group as well as Sporty.

So here's the list of places to go to learn more about Powerwheels Modifications.
(and in no particular order either)

- Ryan Hull Powerwheels Modifications Forum
A place to chat, talk, post questions, pictures, movies, etc about powerwheels. All free for your use, and no Ads.
http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php

- SlimJonesy's Forum and website.
A nice site with another discussion group, tips, ideas, pictures and movies. Again, all for free.
http://www.slimjonesy.com/

- Sporty's Website
Sporty's website has pictures, diagrams, tips, etc. I think he even developed his own Water-cooling system for motors to prevent overheating. Cool idea, and all for free.
http://home.insightbb.com/~powerwheelmods/

All in all, modding your powerwheels can be fun, and SHOULD be a an enjoyable experience. I think this website's time may have come for visitors to seek their advice somewhere else.

Good luck.

Ryan

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 07:58 am:

Free stuff is usually worth exactly what you pay for it.

Take my word for it, the wiring diagram posted on your website, helps NO ONE. It Cuts wires THAT DON'T NEED TO BE CUT. It Discards things THAT NEED TO BE KEPT. It lacks an even basic understanding of how Power Wheels are wired. It is hack with a capital H.

If it is posted elsewhere on the web, they should know better, also.

I don't offer my mods "free for everyone", because I have invested thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours in them, they have been EXTENSIVELY tested and are PROVEN and last time I checked, America was still a capitalist country. Heck, I have spent at least $1000 on mods THAT DIDN'T WORK.

If somebody was selling a $13 Power Wheels modification CD 4 years ago, I could have saved myself $987.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2006 - 08:18 pm:

My own water cooled motors and heat sinks are not crappy ! They work well and are very affective !

it has helped many people along with the info on using a sla battery and fuse.

The only thing I feel you are talking about is the wiring diagram.

Ill be damn if I'm gonna take my site down for that.

Now if you are saying that you are offering a cd if I remove that diagram of wiring. I dont have a problem with doing that. But not due to wanting your cd.

Cause I asked you many months ago, that if it was wrong to provide the correct set up. And I would be happy to add those changes to the diagram.

My goal is to share it for free. So why not just offer that info for free to everyone.

I see your cd on e-bay all the time. If I wanted it I would buy it.

But you made it very clear that any of that information used or shared was of copyright violation.

And I honor that very much.

If I and others come up with mods, that may not be as good as yours. I can still give them away for free on my website.

Cuz the last thing I wanna do is steal from someone. Or be acused of it.

Once and If i had your cd. I would feel limited to what I could share with the net. Conflict of interest with the goal to share the information for free.

So our views are different and I try and respect yours. If you cant respect my views then I dont know what to say.

That same diagram is out there on the net, not just my website.

4 power wheels I have with that set up. they work just fine. Sure I dont have the brake used and its high speed in reverse. And I had to fiddle with it a bit. Its free info. Its not perfect.

Share it if its wrong with everyone, let others share it.

You know my website, could have contacted me in private at anytime.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2006 - 06:57 am:

I have a 1998 ford f-150, I added some 19 gears and motors. The stock were worn out and slow.

This was orginally 2 6 volts, Im trying to get some more speed. I added sla 12volt. However no speed increase.

I am gonna have to do some wiring to it. But will the stock shifter hold up ? or should i add in a newer shifter.

But it is a smaller shifter compared to the newer ones.

Who are you asking? If you want to know how to make an F-150 shifter work, it's on my CD. It's been on my CD for a couple years now. Rather than spread a bunch of misinformation and thrash around in the dark, you can break down and buy a CD or you can continue perform a lot of mods that don't work when you are finished.

I'm sorry, but from my perspective its painful to watch you "help" someone out when you admit your vehicle of the same type doesn't work properly.

Send me your address and I will send you a free CD if you will take down your crappy website that screws up more Power Wheels than it fixes.

I'm not doing this because of "the Competition" your website provides. I'm doing this because I'm tired of CD buyers having to fix the wiring they screwed up by following the directions on your website.

Contact me at support@ungn.net and a CD will head your way when your website goes away.

Thanks!

steve

Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2006 - 06:09 am:

p.s wha is the max amp per hr battery or battery combo that i can use ? i've seen alot of potential batteries on a few web sites.... im would actually prefer run time ,than speed ..but i would love to have both.. thanks or your help!

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2006 - 01:35 am:

steve

Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2006 - 11:03 pm:

How do you purchase your cd? also what type of battery option do you think is best for my sons f-150? 3 6v = 18 or 1 12v do i need to re wire the whole truck with heavyer gauge wire?

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2006 - 10:15 am:

please i need some help ! im trying to find out how to convert my sons power wheels f-150 from 6v to 12v ? is it hard to do ? im trying to make it go faster.... can anyone tell me ,, please thanks

You could just slap in a 12 volt battery and call it good. Of course you'll have high speed reverse and no low speed.

Proper 12 volt conversion for the Pre 2004 F150 is covered in detail on my CD and shows how to convert the factory shifter to high/low speed with low speed only reverse.

The CD has additional instructions that show how to add a steering wheel mounted button to activate high speed that also locks out high speed in reverse (for newer F-150's without shifters converted to a single 12 volt battery).

Also for the previous generations F-150, you can add a brake pedal, a nitrous button, perform an 18 volt conversion, etc.

I'm not telling you this to plug my CD, I'm just letting you know that this information is on it.

Hope this helps, UNGN.net

steve

Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 11:44 am:

please i need some help ! im trying to find out how to convert my sons power wheels f-150 from 6v to 12v ? is it hard to do ? im trying to make it go faster.... can anyone tell me ,, please thanks

Slimjonesy
Username: Slimjonesy

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, January 02, 2006 - 12:07 am:

Hey guys check out my site when you get time. I have a forum that is organized and lots of pictures and video of my little one with his power wheels. The videos are under the "Files" section. Please make sure you register on my forum. Thanks guys.

www.slimjonesy.com

sLiM

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:52 pm:

I thought "super 6" PW's were defined as two 6 volt batteries in series for 12 volts?

The Super 6 volt models are the Firerock, Corvette, Lamborghini, Big Jake, Barbie full size quads, etc. All are dual motor/single 6 volt battery and all make great candidates for 12 volt conversion, either with an additional 6 volt battery or a single 12 volt.

All Power Wheels before 1998 used dual 6 volt batteries instead of a single 12 volt. Dual 6 volt battery vehicles have always been known as "12 volt" vehicles.

As for the difference in the 12volt vs. 6volt motors - that's good info. I was referring to all the housings being the same. I upgrade all my motors to the 550 series motors from All Electronics (#231 I think), thanks to the info from your CD.

The Standard Super 6 volt motor is very close in performance to the 231. If you have Super 6 volt gearboxes, I personally wouldn't swap out the motors, unless they are burnt up.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sevensandeights
Username: Sevensandeights

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:25 pm:

I thought "super 6" PW's were defined as two 6 volt batteries in series for 12 volts?

As for the difference in the 12volt vs. 6volt motors - that's good info. I was referring to all the housings being the same. I upgrade all my motors to the 550 series motors from All Electronics (#231 I think), thanks to the info from your CD.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 01:30 am:

Contrary to what I have seen posted here and elsewhere, the PW front end loader IS a "Super 6 Volt Vehicle". A Super 6 volt vehicle is defined by having a single 6 volt battery, but having 2 motors/gearboxes (vs. only 1) and they are usually rated at 3.5 mph, single speed, forward and reverse.

We have not had access to a front loader to mod one, but I would guess the brake pedal could not be cleanly fitted to this vehicle. A better Idea may be to run a small momentary pushbutton switch to one of the handles to activate the brake when needed. The brake wire is the bottom pole of the pedal switch. Splice a switch into this wire and the "Power Lock" auto brakes have been defeated and are now 100% controlled by the child.

Also, not all power wheels motors are the same. Besides the obvious differences of the 700 series motors in #4 gearboxes, the standard Super 6 volt , 550 series motors will spin about 22K rpm at no load @ 12 volts vs. 16K for the standard 12 volt, 550 series motors. This is why most converted super 6 volt vehicles run about 7 mph with a 12 volt conversion and not because of any gearing advantage.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Peter Nemanic DC
Username: Nemanicdc

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, December 30, 2005 - 10:41 pm:

Update on the Cat Power Loader:
I wired up two 6v PW batteries in series and the I had to RUN after my son. 7-8 mph. After 10 minutes he was doing 180's with ease. No problems with heat (motors became warm but not hot) I am looking for a 12V UPS battery will fit without having to hack up the small battery compartment. 8.25 inches by 2.75 inches. Thanks for the great info on this board. I have a 3rd 6v battery: 18v anyone ?

Will this model accept the break pedal mod?

Peter Nemanic DC
www.nemanicdc.com

Sevensandeights
Username: Sevensandeights

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 10:34 pm:

All you have to do is put the 12volt battery in and you're done! Every PW vehicle I have taken apart has had the same motor. Only the battery and wire size has been different among the 6 volt and 12 volt versions. I have 2 big foots (super 6 volt), a 12 volt Jeep, a 6 volt Jeep, a 12 volt 4-wheeler, and a 6 volt dump truck.

I converted the Caterpillar dump truck to 12 volts simply by swapping batteries. It is by far my fastest one because the gear boxes have a favorable ratio.

You can use a PW 12 volt battery if you splice in a new pig tail. Go to the PW website and find the nearest authorized service center. Find a way to have them sell you a new pigtail. Take it home and cut it in half and splice it onto the existing harness. Simply plug the new leads into the PW 12 battery and you're done!

A word of caution - they are often reluctant due to liability and loss of income by not doing the work themselves. My local service center was cool and sold me the pig tails for $1 each!

FYI - The caterpillar loader you have is the MOST coveted PW of all time!!!!!!!!! I have seen them go for over $500 on ebay and rarely do the ever go for less than $250 used.

Peter Nemanic DC
Username: Nemanicdc

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, December 26, 2005 - 03:42 pm:

I was given a non-functional Cat Power Loader. I swapped out the switches (forward/reverse and the gas pedal) and replaced the battery to get it running again, however (with a big nod to Chris of South lake TX) is it possible to upgrade the single 6v (this is not a super six) to a single 12v without frying the motors. It has only one speed (3.5 mph forward or reverse) which will be fun for my 3 y/o for about another week (he is already trying to stunt ride. This model was not part of the recall and has the modern connector for a single 6v red battery.

Would a 12 volt double the speed +/-?

Will it just spin out due to the rear wheel drive and rear wheel steering?

Wheelies?

Thanks much

Peter Nemanic DC
www.nemanicdc.com

tab

Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 03:56 pm:

where do you get rubber tires for the power wheels? and how do you put them on

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 05:25 pm:

Has anyone ever attempted to make a power wheels vehicle remote controlled? I have a 6 year old who has some developmental delays he cannot get the steering and pedal thing at the same time he will crash into anything in the way. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

Power Wheels vehicles can be a great tool for teaching someone how to use the steering, gas and brake simultaneously.

I personally would not advocate radio controlling ANYTHING with a real life human that you care about onboard. Besides the obvious safety concerns, taking the control of these away from the child teaches them to be dependant on someone else.

If you only want to remotely shut off the vehicle, I do recommend this, however. If a child enjoys running into stuff, a remote kill switch is a great tool to teach them that their actions have consequenses and if they want to run into stuff, they can sit there for a while as the kids who don't run into stuff get to keep driving their Power Wheels.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

treboats

Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 03:07 pm:

goonyguy

Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2005 - 10:53 pm:

Ive been modding my sons ride-on toys since he was nine months old. Mostly quads because thats what daddy rides. the six volt little quad and go-cart from power wheels have enormous potential for speed. imagine pulling a wheelie on it and scooting by at ten plus mph! too fast for stock quad chassis specs but i have changed the width by four inches front and rear to keep from tipping in corners.the go-cart is great on baseball diamonds where he can open it up, its amazing to see an 18 month old drifting with a clay base roostertail behind him, crowds gather! Start by pulling out the stock motor, press off the gear. Heres where it gets tricky.Go to a hobby store and picup a 1.5 mm tap and set screw, drill a hole in the gear between the teeth near one end only halfway through. Run your tap and then you can attatch the gear to any hiperformance 550series motor. switch out the 6 volt for a 12 volt battery like a B9S motorcycle battery, strap your kid on and be ready to run as fast as you can!

Driftpro90
Username: Driftpro90

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2005 - 03:42 pm:

ok so i for got to put my email and my website so im gona do it now i been in a lot of things latley and havent had time for any thing so here it is my web site first www.xtremdriftpro90.proboards74.com
and my email briattheflow@aol.com

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 09:42 pm:

besides e-bay, themending shed.

look for the link to ryanhull.com

there is links for sellers of parts

i have 19 t and 21t in my exstreme machine and elminator.

sporty

Madoc1
Username: Madoc1

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 07:40 pm:

oops, forgot about the fuse. thx. but mat try (since im already demolishing the batt to pulloff the original cb and putting that in line.

mesing with an extreme now with torn up gears. thought i would try 19t boxes instead of the original 16t ones. do you know of any sources other than ebay? thx again jim

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 12:43 pm:

you might want to use epoxy instead if silicone, dont know it the acid will eat it.

But aslong as you have a fuse installed, I dotn see why not use the orginal connector.

Charging, If you are planning on using orginal wall charger, charge time will take just as long. the 18 to 22 hours.

Madoc1
Username: Madoc1

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 10:22 pm:

this is my second try at this. if it is a double post,sorry. new to all this, butread about hooking up different batteries,etc. and chargers and all othe wiring. well it occurred to me that since already had a bad batt why not just whack off the top and use the original connector. sure 'nough,wires and all. couple new ends and silicon to the top of the new ups batt. and ready to go.

also found two dry cells so am filling fiddling with the old batt. any see a down side to this?

jim

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 06:54 pm:

Well,

I installed stock 19t gears and motors in a xstreme machine and 21 gears and motors in eliminator.

19 gear and motors run better and faster than the stock 16 gears and motors.

still 12 volt 12 amp battery, 30 amp fuse

Now the 21 gears and motors, they move pretty fast.

But due to the gears and motors. The larger wheels this was not meant for. Was for smaller wheeled vehicle.

My 12 volt battery is DOA in like 5 minutes, My relay is overloading and staying stuck open.

Blowing the 30 amp fuse.

But it is fast, But I am gonna have to install a bigger rated relay and fuse. Not to mention a higher amp battery. Might try a 12 volt 17 amp battery.

Maybe even a riding lawn mower batter, Gonna have to beef the wiring up.

in less than 20 feet, the 21 gear and motor power wheel, passes the 19 gear and motor power wheel.

For those who dont know, the eliminator and xstreme machine are bascially the same power wheel.

Both motors and gears for the 19 and 21 were both brand new.

I might even try is with 18 volts, I imagine it will really be fast then.

sporty

dan polovich

Posted on Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 01:40 am:

I have read and seen alot about wiring and motor upgrades for powerwheels. Is there anything out there about lifts and wheel and tire combo swaps.

Sparky
Username: Sparky

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 08:16 pm:

just for GP. i got my 3 yr old son a jeep to ride around in but there are too many kids in the neiborhood and only 2 seats in the jeep. so when i saw someone getting rid of one for free that didnt work i picked it up, fixed it up with the help from this page and may even trick it out with the help of chris' cd. added benifit. im an apprentice electrician just starting out and the dc motor and control wiring experience has been invaluable.

as for gas. i do plan on getting my kid a polaris 50cc 4 wheeler for his 5th birthday (personally i ride a polaris 500 sportsman) but somehow i doubt that i will pick that 50 cc bike up for free and get it running for less than $50. ive been looking and i cant even find anything used for less than 500. untill then...HE'S THREE bill

Mark

Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:09 pm:

Some one below mentioned a "nitrous" button, i'm assuming that it is a voltage boost, does any one know how to do this? my son has the Power Wheels 12v Ninja

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, October 07, 2005 - 02:02 pm:

Are there anywhere where we can race Mod Power Wheels?

Check which your local short track. Lots of tracks have an intermission Power Wheels race a couple times a year. Even Lowes Motor Speedway has had them during their Legends races.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, October 07, 2005 - 01:55 pm:

My twin nephews are "2" and on PW 50 Yamaha's w, out rigger wheels on a small mx track. Should we move them up to a Mod Power Wheels? Which one? Which Mods? How long will they run? This gas is getting so expensive. I bet they use a half gallon a week in the Pw's

I am so confused!!! Please Help.

Bill

Yawnnn....

You can buy a Power wheels Jeep at a garage sale for about $20. With simple mods and new batteries (less than $50 total) a 3 year old can be screaming around the driveway from 8 to 12 mph.

An $18, shipped to your door 12AH battery will last a little more than an hour before it requires recharging and last for 300+ recharges.

Maybe your wife has no problems with her Kids riding motorcycles, but my son will never be allowed to ride one. I'll bet there are twice as many dad's in my position than there are in your's.

Have fun with your nephews and their motorcycles. When they want to play with their neighbor's modified Power Wheels, tell them "No! those are stupid...Hey! maybe next weekend we can go to the motorcross track and ride".

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Rick

Posted on Friday, October 07, 2005 - 12:40 pm:

Are there anywhere where we can race Mod Power Wheels?

Bill

Posted on Friday, October 07, 2005 - 12:38 pm:

Do you guys own Energizer Battery Co?????????????

4 years of Mod PowerWheels before Go Kart Racing???

I guess I screwed up! My son Flys a bike well over 50' his cousin "6" will go 20' plus and never had a "Power Wheels". What could they do if they did?? I guess we will never know.

My twin nephews are "2" and on PW 50 Yamaha's w, out rigger wheels on a small mx track. Should we move them up to a Mod Power Wheels? Which one? Which Mods? How long will they run? This gas is getting so expensive. I bet they use a half gallon a week in the Pw's

I am so confused!!! Please Help.

Bill

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 06:43 pm:

http://home.insightbb.com/~powerwheelmods/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

look and view, pic's this may help you and to answer some of your questions.

kelnoble

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 12:03 pm:

I have a Peg Perego with 2-6volt batteries that I want to convert to a lawn and garden 12volt. How do I do it?

Nfollis
Username: Nfollis

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 11:02 am:

Hi,

I am new to this forum, but have learned a ton from all of you already. My husband garbage picked 2 jeeps from my 1, 2 and 3 year old boys. His plan is to modify one of the jeeps into something big and fun. My question is - this jeep runs off the 2 6-v batteries. We want to convert it to the newer 12-v, but how do I get ahold of the new connections for the 12-v battery? (I think it is H-style?) I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any suggestions?!

And to comment on what Bill said: I am sure you mean well, but I have a 3 year old on a pw50 and he prefers the powerwheels right now because thats what his little brothers are on and the fact that we have to limit it to go slower then what we know its fast capabilites are. A 3 and 4 year old can still get injured very easily on a gas powered vehicle - so please don't ruin it for the little guys!!!

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 10:15 am:

This is the dumbest thing I have ever seen!!!! Mod'ing a Power Wheels!!!! Why don't you guys go buy your kids a real motorcycle and have some REAL FUN!!!! My son it 10 and loves to shreed a track and his cousin is 6 and will fly a motorcycle 20' plus all day long.

Check out gas, it is way more fun than batteries!!

Bill

Modified Power Wheels are for 2 to 6 year olds. A little early to riding motorcycles. I'm sure your 10 year old son could "fly" his motorcycle 20' when he was 4. Not.

My son turned 6 this year and now races Go Karts. Put him in an equal kart to a kid who didn't have 4 years of modified Power Wheel driving experience and he will drive around and away from them. The slicker the track, the more he likes it.

Motorcycles and Go Karts are great for older kids, but why should little kids miss out on the fun?

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Windsor104
Username: Windsor104

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 10:05 am:

I have been thinking about modding a powerwheels home depot loader by putting a straight axle in back with motors and adding motors to the front wheels to make all four wheels pull. The twist on this is I want to make the steering actually like a real skid steer loader by using the power wheels wild thing joysticks/switches. I have both the loader and the wild thing now, and looking at both I think it will work, but the kids aren't going to let me gut the wild thing now that they have ridden on it. One problen I see is how to do high and low speed. Anybody have any thoughts on this project?

Bill

Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 09:07 am:

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 10:37 pm:

thats what i have is a early quad
got the motors mounted and ready to wire

So just run a seris to each motor
i have your cd chris, it was well worth 12 bucks
thanks

I would use the stock wiring harness, but hook up 12 volt batteries in place of the 6 volts.

The high speed will be 24 volts, the low speed 12.

Then hook the back 2 motors in series together and the front 2 motors in series together, then hook these two pairs of motors in parallel to the output wires of the harness.

Do the brake pedal mod for quads and it should work ok. We put rubber tires on ours an it would fold the body up under braking, so we took them back off.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Youngbuck
Username: Youngbuck

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 05:43 pm:

thats what i have is a early quad
got the motors mounted and ready to wire

So just run a seris to each motor
i have your cd chris, it was well worth 12 bucks
thanks

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 07:54 am:

has anyone put additional 2 motors for a total of 4 motors on a power wheel.

We've done this on a few vehicles, but you need to run at least 36 volts worth of batteries for it to be any fun for the child. The reason for the voltage requirement is for the vehicle to have any steering control at all, you need to run the motors on each axle in series.

This allows one motor to run slighly slower than the other for a diferential effect. Otherwise all for motors are full speed ahead and the child has to lift off the gas to turn.

Lifting off the gas is another problem, because if the vehicle still has the "power lock brake", every time the child lifts off the gas, the vehicle slams to a halt with more than double the braking force of a normal power wheel. So a separate brake pedal is a requirement.

Then there is tire selection. Forget rubber tires unless you have HEAVILY reinforced the frame or the vehicle will fold up like an accordian every time the brake is pressed. Nose wheelies can also become a problem when braking with high traction tires.

So you need to run LOTS of batteries (or the vehicle will be painfully slow), you Can't run high traction tires (which nearly defeats the purpose of 4 wheels drive) and you have to put a lot of metal in the vehicle to withstand the force of just driving around.

All the vehicles I've put 4 wheel drive on and gave my son a choice of 4X4 or 4X2 he chose 4X2 every time.

These drawbacks are why I didn't put a 4X4 mod on my CD.

Here is a video of a quad with 4X4 and electronic twist grip motor control on 24 volts

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 01:49 am:

Yes from my understanding a couple of people have did this, I forget but someone has a video showing 4x4.

Also someone did it but mentioned trouble with steering, tire slip.

Youngbuck
Username: Youngbuck

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2005 - 11:48 pm:

has anyone put additional 2 motors for a total of 4 motors on a power wheel.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2005 - 06:21 pm:

winter projects, winter will be soon here, less days for power wheel riding, unless you live in one of the states done get much of a winter.

Depending on fall conditions, i dont see my kids have more than 3 or 4 weeks left of riding.

But for winter, It will be time for me to add better motors and gears to some of the power wheels and to get some more batteries.

Unless a reasonable price 18 volt comes about, then it will be 3, 6 volts. I need to get 6 , 6 volt batteries, atleast 4 gear boxes and 4 motors.

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2005 - 11:05 am:

Please help me! I have a red silverado power wheels and i need a wiring diagram the dogs chewed the wires out and i cant remember how the wires go. please email me. webbsel@yahoo.com

Since I'm so tired of seeing hacked up, screwed up wiring diagrams on the internet, here is what your Vehicle's wiring should look like:

12 Volt Shifter Wiring

Note that this very similar, but not the same as earlier dual 6 volt vehicles that have been converted to a single 12 volt. You can approximate this wiring for those vehicles (there will be a braking resistor on the Orange wire, a Thermal circuit breaker on the red wire (usually a white wire on earlier harnesses) near the pedal and a "high speed cutout" Plug instead of a white loop on the high/low switch), but otherwise (if not colorwise), they will be the same.

Here is a hint: (turn the dual 6 volt harness around and compare it to the diagram).

Using this diagram as a guide is much easier than the other crap I've seen that has the pedal controlling battery negative (where in the world is Positive ground standard?) and no braking circuit. It will require a lot less hacking of the factory harness two battery harness (almost none) to allow single battery operation.

Now you don't even have to E-mail "Driftpro" at his non existant E-mail address to learn how to do "it".

I post this diagram for the world to see, because this IS NOT what my CD is about. My CD is about you and your kids enjoying their childhood and not about you hacking up the factory wiring harness so you can save a couple bucks on an unsafe battery.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 05:52 pm:

fixed links to my website and added some idea photos for power wheels.

http://home.insightbb.com/~powerwheelmods/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 01:30 pm:

How can I make it easier to hook up the charger, without getting under the seat? Since I made it harder to get back there for the kids, how about making it easier for Pop?

1.) Cut the two "H" or "A" male connectors off of your old, dead 6 volt batteries, leaving as much wire as possible.

2.) Add enough wire to one of the male connectors to run a pair of wires from under the hood, through the center channel to under the seat (to the new battery location).

3.) Hook the white wire side of the connector to the + side of the battery thru a fuse (you can use a "tap splice" to hook into the battery wire on the vehicle harness side of the fuse you installed with the new battery)

4.) Hook the black wire side of the connector to the - side of the battery (a tap splice would work great for this).

5.) Take the other "H" or "A" connector and use a "butt connector" to make a loop of two wires.

6.) To charge the battery, stack the looped plug with the underhood connector and plug into your Power Wheels 12 volt battery charger.

Now even your kids can charge the battery.

The only drawback to this is the vehicle can still work, while it being charged. Wiring a single pole, double throw switch (rated at at least 30 Amps) to the positive battery wire you can make a "Charge/Run" switch, that also acts as a "shut off switch" for the battery.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 08:05 am:

Please help me! I have a red silverado power wheels and i need a wiring diagram the dogs chewed the wires out and i cant remember how the wires go. please email me. webbsel@yahoo.com

The Pedal/Battery Wires should be hooked up as follows:

The White Wire goes FROM the Battery Positive terminal TO the TOP TERMINAL on the gas pedal switch (closest to the screw).

The Red wire goes FROM the MIDDLE TERMINAL of the Pedal switch back TO the SHIFTER. This is the Vehicle + wire.

The Black wire goes FROM the Battery Negative terminal back TO the SHIFTER. This is the vehicle - wire.

The Orange wire goes FROM the BOTTOM terminal of the pedal switch (farthest from the screw), back TO the shifter (and connects to the black wire).

Based on what I've found on the internet in the last 4 years, the closest thing to a wiring diagram you will find is a poorly drawn sketch that probably won't be acurate for your vehicle.

If the motor wires are undamaged, the above should get you fixed up.

If the wires are correct and the vehicle does not run, you likely have a Battery or switch problem.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Webbsel
Username: Webbsel

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 10:13 pm:

Please help me! I have a red silverado power wheels and i need a wiring diagram the dogs chewed the wires out and i cant remember how the wires go. please email me. webbsel@yahoo.com

driftpro

Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 11:50 am:

try soldering wires to the battery terminals then put bolts thru the body with the wires soldered to them it'll look clean when your done....hopefully....hhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 09:51 pm:

you might try a 2 prong connector, that mounts on the body, with a cover protecting the connector.

I dont have a particular one in mind, but maybe something like a rv or camper uses or a trailer connector, male and female.

Then use the other end for the charger.

sporty

KKPJM

Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 04:54 pm:

I previously posted about putting a 12v in the old Enforcer Jeep, and got some conflicting info about whether to rewire or not. Well, I bought a 12V wheelchair battery, deep cycle, and wired it in directly in place of the (2) 6v's. It works great. The wife's nursing background and general nervousness with me wiring the kids' toys made it necessary to install a shut off switch where she could easily get to it. Since I made it a lot harder to get at the battery, (wouldn't want the kids poking around back there) perhaps this is a good idea.
How can I make it easier to hook up the charger, without getting under the seat? Since I made it harder to get back there for the kids, how about making it easier for Pop?

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 23, 2005 - 11:00 pm:

couple of things -

1. Question, Have the eliminator and the xstreme machine. They both the same right ?

I am running same 12 volt 12 amp batteries. For some reason the xstreme machine is slower than the eliminator.

I got the johnson motors I bought, going, (8 tooth gear. Here is how I did it.

I got a 1/16hth drill bit and inserted the gear and with a vise, drilled whole thru gear and then got some tiny screws, that were just a tad bigger than 1/16th and screwed in.

Then I used a dremel to take the head of the screw off and grind to the shape of gear.

So far holding up. I feel the motor is slightly faster than stock on pavement or gravel. In the yard maybe a tad less grunt.

Darn close replacement and one heck of a price. Does seem to use the battery quicker tho, than the other power wheels.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2005 - 11:55 pm:

Chris,

I personally would like to thank you. Even tho I didn't buy you're cd, You have been helpfull in this forum. You have provided tips and info.

Thank You,

Sincerely,

Sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2005 - 10:51 pm:

dont buy the cd its a rip email me with ?'s and ill tell you how to do it

Yeah. Don't buy my CD. E-mail a guy who has no E-mail address or website. He'll tell you how to do it (whatever "it" is).

I've sold over 1200 CD's and have a 100% rating on E-bay and answer about 5 e-mail questions/day from from people who HAVEN'T purchased my CD yet.

Maybe you just have an older version of the CD so you know it's a "rip". What CD serial # do you have and I'll send you the updates.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

driftpro90

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2005 - 08:18 pm:

dont buy the cd its a rip email me with ?'s and ill tell you how to do it

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2005 - 06:58 pm:

here is link to my site, with pics of mods.

http://home.insightbb.com/~powerwheelmods/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

the links I have to fix, to many http's.

So if you click on it, when it comes up, just remove the extra http until i fix it.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2005 - 03:42 pm:

Water cooled,

I have been working and I am almost done on the water cooled motor project.

I will post pictures at some point.

Here is what I used -

1- atwood, v500 submersible pump. $10.80 wal-mart

2- 1 plastic T fitting, 1/4 x 1/8th $1.25, ace hardware

3- 3 fitting, 1/4 inch 1.00 each, ace hardware

4- 6 feet 1/4 inch copper tubing. Cut in 1/2, 3 foot length coiled on each motor. $.69 cent a foot, ace hardware.

5- 1/4 tubing, aprox 12 feet. $.35 cents a foot, ace hardware

6- 6 clamps for tight tubing. $.69 cents each, ace hardware

7- 1 plastic container, $2.29 wal-mart

8- plastic epoxy, comes in black tube.
$4.29 ace hardware.

9- 1 adapter to fit atwood pump. $1.25, ace hardware.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 06:29 pm:

actually,

I might have a suggestion or 2, I need a good pic of the back of it and underside.

I built a gas powered scooter from scratch a few years ago.

Here our some idea's, even tho I dont have a pic or recall the link. Ned pic's of what I mentioned.

If there is space for it under or just behind the back of the vehicle.

Those our 2 the places I would mount it.

using 1/16th or 1/8 th steel plate. I feel you could mount it to the plastic, if the mounting area was say atleast 4x4 inches with a backer plate on the other side of the plastic.

As for the drive train, I would use like a bicycle chain and sprockets.

I would find or use somehow a bigger metal shaft, say 1/2, then coonect them right to the tires. Have some aluminum made wheel inserts, that fit into the groove or adapt or rig something that would work.

Now you would have to make a new mount system for holding the axle to the jeep, to allow the back wheels to spin. unless you have a different type of support system on the jeep, that would not interfer with what I previously mentioned.

You want the sprocket to be 1/2 the size of that back wheel. To get some decent torq and power. a 6 or 8 tooth sprocket on the weed eater shaft just after the clutch.

sporty

Ryan Hull

Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 02:35 pm:

Jeep update: I am still working on my Pimped Ride. Still looking for a way to get a weed-wacker engine in there.
Any suggestions?

Thanks!

http://ZeldereX.com/?topic=59695

Thanks again everyone!

Ryan

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 19, 2005 - 10:55 pm:

vipermp,

here is link to those motors -

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=400&item=DCM-231&typ e=store

The motors do seem to work, I did not fully test and I have a gear issue, Meaning I need to have the gear stay on the shaft without spinning.

I might drill a small whole and insert something to keep the spin.

I feel this is small problem and the motors are at a great price.

I use sealed 12volt sla battieries, for about $12 not including shipping off the net.

They work fine and charge in under 4.5 hours.

I just added the inline 30 amp fuse on the 12volt model power wheels.

I have ran the 18 volts and correct, I recommend either a 18 volt battery or 3, 6 volts.

And i also recommend cooling fans and a heat sink.

I have rigged up some heat sinks on 3 of the kids power wheels and they are working.

I am gonna work on kewling them with water, a subersible sump pump and copper tubing wrapped around the motor.

I got this idea from r/c boats, and water cooled cpu's.

I will let people know when I do it, maybe in a week or 2.

I found a 18 volt battery from the mending shed, however $64, ouch.

I have tried e-bay but cant find one, or cheaper.

sporty

Vipermp

Posted on Monday, September 19, 2005 - 02:24 pm:

Just wondering if the motors you ordered worked out and what model you got.

Vipermp
Username: Vipermp

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 19, 2005 - 02:12 pm:

Well I'm new to this whole PW modding thing and working on two jeeps. I am very concerned about some of the things people in here are doing namely using car batteries and the like for power. Upping voltage and all is great but you need to stop and do a little risk assessment. A car battery is not sealed so you open up your CHILDS toy to battery acid leakage and explosion. Explain that to the doctors if it ever happens. A car battery makes absolutley no sence when you consider the added voltage against the risk factor and working against the 30lbs of extra weight you just put into it. There are alot of 6, 12, and 18v sealed dry or gel cell batteries out there that are much safer, much lighter and a whole lot more practical for this type of application.

And as far as running multiple batteries in series using a 12v and a 6v to achieve 18v makes for complications both in operation and in charging. Run three 6v batteries in series and you can put a charging jack on the jeep and charge all three at the same time, assuming you have a good charger.

And if you are going to bump up voltage drop the twenty or so dollars and pick up a couple of 12v cooling fans for the motors this will greatly increase the longevity of them.

Last but not least for the individuals trying to wire lights up I suggest you abandon the idea of using just a switch to turn them off and on otherwise you will end up with lights on all day and left on after parking and alot of dead batteries. You can pick up a photocell fairly cheap (under twenty bucks) so the lights come on automatically when it gets dark and turn off during the day.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 05:13 pm:

recieved in the mail today, 2 motors from all electronic's.

the shafts do have slot in them not lined.

So I am wondering how others got the metal gear to stay on the shaft.

These motors seem more like would work with the plastic gear that has the slot in it.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2005 - 07:06 pm:

Well,

I ordered a couple of those motors from all electronics today.

I hope they have the grooves on the shaft, anyone else that bought them know ?

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2005 - 08:03 am:

You are good, it is a thunderbolt/magnum do you have a diagram on your cd?

This is my 4th year developing Power Wheels mods. We've torn up over 30 different vehicles to see how they work. These is a lot of mis-information floating around about Power Wheels. I can't correct it all, so I don't even try. Be aware of this when modifying your Power Wheel.

Most Peg Perego and Power Wheels vehicles are wired similarly. If the vehicle harness has 4 battery wires, the CD shows how to turn the harness around so a single 12 volt battery can be used. I've never seen a Peg Perego Magnum in person, but every Peg Perego I have seen has similar wiring to Power Wheels, even similar wire colors and switches.

Once the harness has been modified you can run the vehicle on either 6, 12 or 18 volts (not all at once, of course) and it will have both high and low speeds.

how would you wire a 12v 12a and a 6v 12a ups batteries up?

Once the harness of a 4 wire battery vehicle has been modified or with a 2 wire battery vehicle, you just hook the batteries up in series.

You can also hook the 12 volt battery up normally and hook the 6 volt battery up like you would with a Nitrous button.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Youngbuck
Username: Youngbuck

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2005 - 01:18 am:

how would you wire a 12v 12a and a 6v 12a ups batteries up?

Youngbuck
Username: Youngbuck

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 08:58 am:

Look 1/2 way down the page to see the Thunderbolt:

http://www.kidswheels.com/index.cfm?catid=141

If there are 4 battery wires in the harness, you will need to modify the harness to use a single 12 volt battery and maintain high and low speed.
You are good, it is a thunderbolt/magnum do you have a diagram on your cd?

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 12, 2005 - 12:37 am:

have a power wheel and trying to find out what it is, it looks like a f150.I have found the peg perego logo on the bottom of it. I am going to attemt to wire it up to a ups battery but ends are already clip off no h or a connerctors just 4 wires dif. colors any help?

Power Wheels F150's have always looked EXACTLY like an F150, either an '86 F150, a '96 F150 or a '04 F150. If it "kind of" looks like an F150, this sounds like a Peg Perego Thunderbolt.

Look 1/2 way down the page to see the Thunderbolt:

http://www.kidswheels.com/index.cfm?catid=141

If there are 4 battery wires in the harness, you will need to modify the harness to use a single 12 volt battery and maintain high and low speed.

You cannot just twist the positive and negative pairs of wires together and expect to have anything.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Youngbuck
Username: Youngbuck

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 11:23 pm:

I have a power wheel and trying to find out what it is, it looks like a f150.I have found the peg perego logo on the bottom of it. I am going to attemt to wire it up to a ups battery but ends are already clip off no h or a connerctors just 4 wires dif. colors any help?

KKPJM

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 07:05 pm:

Thanks for all of your help. The little ones will appreciate it.

Good luck with the TTA. So-so car, awesome motor.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 04:11 pm:

Now, who do I believe??? One guy says no rewire, using deep cycle SLA, the other says rewire or I'll burn it up... I have some batteries on hand from my Simplicity Tractor, which has an alternator/generator...I got the batteries from tractor Supply, type 51R-60...435 CC amps. Now, who do I believe??? One guy says no rewire, using deep cycle SLA, the other says rewire or I'll burn it up... I have some batteries on hand from my Simplicity Tractor, which has an alternator/generator...I got the batteries from tractor Supply, type 51R-60...435 CC amps.

Would it be that easy, to just create a new connector at the end of the black/white wires and go to pos/neg terminals on the 12v battery???

Yes, it is pretty much that easy on vehicles equipped with a shifter.

You need to fuse the new 12 volt battery with a 25-35 amp fuse or circuit breaker.

Stay away from batteries rated in Cold Cranking Amps, however, as they are not designed to deep cycled (Deep cycle batteries are rated in Amp-hrs). Draining a starting battery below 95% of it's full capacity (Like during Power Wheels usage) will damage them internally. The vehicle may run at speed longer, but when the vehicle is noticeably slowing down, the starting battery is being damaged. Treat a starting battery like this for a month or so and it can be used as a door stop, but little else.

Deep Cycle batteries are designed to be drained to 50-60% of their full capacity without internal damage.

Safety problems with starting batteries include terminal corrosion, liquid acid, very high amp discharge rates, hydrogen gas release which can lead to explosion during charging or during use, etc. etc.

By the way...what does UNGN stand for...is there a black Buick reference there? Used to have one....

UNGN is the white T-type turbo I used to race. Since it wasn't black it was an UN-GN. It also applies to my GN powered '89 TTA, which we are building to race in 1/2 mile and one mile drag race events.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

KKPJM

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 03:37 pm:

Sorry, guys about the rear axle thing. I just saw what looked like slots for an axle, down in the bottom of the battery tray, and assumed...well, you know what you do when you assume. After further inspection, it does, of course, have an axle...

Now, who do I believe??? One guy says no rewire, using deep cycle SLA, the other says rewire or I'll burn it up... I have some batteries on hand from my Simplicity Tractor, which has an alternator/generator...I got the batteries from tractor Supply, type 51R-60...435 CC amps.

Would it be that easy, to just create a new connector at the end of the black/white wires and go to pos/neg terminals on the 12v battery???

By the way...what does UNGN stand for...is there a black Buick reference there? Used to have one....

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 02:54 pm:

just received an old Powerwheels Enforcer Jeep, ... Why can't I just sit a lawn battery in there and hook up to the white and black leads that come out of the connector...that is, simply replace the 2 red batteries with the one 12V lawn battery? Why do I have to rewire everything???

On Unibody wranglers you do not have to "rewire" anything. As you suspect, the white wire is "+" and the black wire is "-". Only the earlier Power Wheels vehicles that have two separate switches (no shifter) require "Rewiring" to use a single 12 volt battery.

I wouldn't use a Lawn Mower starting battery, however. There are too many downsides and not enough upsides. Suffice to say, if you can't name at least 5 of the downsides off the top of your head, you have no business installing a starting battery in a kid's toy.

Find a deep cycle SLA battery and use that. Search "SLA battery" on E-bay for options.

Also...the vehicle apparently has no rear axle...just the two motor/gearboxes. I don't know why the axle isn't there, but do I really need it? My two little guys don't add up to 60 pounds total yet, so can I get by without the axle for a while? Where can I get one??

If your vehicle doesn't have a rear axle, there is no way for the rear wheels to stay on.

Even if you could physically attach the tires to the gearboxes, they are not designed to carry and load and they will fold flat.

Rear axle material is readily available. For most Power Wheels it is basically 7/16" round bar stock. Northern Tool is the best place to buy Axle material. Lowes usually has it, too and has more locations than Northern tool, but Lowes knows 7/16" bar stock = Power Wheels axles so they charge double what northern tool charges ($10 vs. $5)

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 12:12 pm:

KKPJM,

Im not sure what you mean the rear axle missing, the steel shaft ?

The shaft usually holds in the motor and the rear wheels.

You have 2 rewire, or you will burn it up.

A lawn mower battery gives off 2 many amps for that wiring.

I recommend a inline 30 amp fuse and the ups battery, 12 volt 12 amp, can get them off e-bay for under $12.00 not including shipping.

There our links on the forum to show you how to do your wiring.

It is not that hard 2 do.

I also recommend heat sinks on the motor, if you decide to go , 3, 6 volt battereies, = 18 volts.

sporty

KKPJM

Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 09:50 am:

I just received an old Powerwheels Enforcer Jeep, and a couple old batteries that are relatively useless. There were even two unused ones, but they had 1999 dates on 'em. This vehicle never had the recall work done, so it still has the old connectors.
Why can't I just sit a lawn battery in there and hook up to the white and black leads that come out of the connector...that is, simply replace the 2 red batteries with the one 12V lawn battery? Why do I have to rewire everything???

Also...the vehicle apparently has no rear axle...just the two motor/gearboxes. I don't know why the axle isn't there, but do I really need it?
My two little guys don't add up to 60 pounds total yet, so can I get by without the axle for a while? Where can I get one??

Thanks

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2005 - 11:11 pm:

Hi,

I was hoping those that might want to send a letter to fisher price,

In regards to not being able to buy certain parts, or just motors without the gear box.

Tips and hints if yuo so choose.

here is info

Neil Freidman

636 girard Ave
Easy Aurora, new york, 14052

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2005 - 03:50 pm:

Wanted info to buy some power wheel motors.

Problem anyone I contact, wantes to sell the gear box also.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 10:57 pm:

I didnt know about any issues, they werent mentioned on the forum.

None the less, now current and future forum guests or members can read and know that the plastic gear, will not hold up on the mods.

That power wheel I have had had for 2 years and never had a problem. Until I did the mod to the 18 volt.

So those little details and info, should be posted.

You know alot and have alot of info. Perhaps you can post some more of that info.

I know I was hoping someone would post a responce to the different motor numbers I posted.

Was hoping to find out what the numbers mean and so forth.

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 02:09 pm:

sizzle, sizzle,

1 of the power wheels has the plastic gear on the end of the motor shaft.

18 volts, faster speed = plastic dont hold up.

I just happen to have a spare set of motors with the metal gear on the end of the shaft.

So warning to others, make sure you have the metal gears on the end of the shaft motors, the plastic will not hold up.

sporty

Issues with the #3 gearbox are pretty common, even with 12 volts. "Traction bands" will destroy these gearboxes faster than 18 volts. Even the metal pinion #3 gearboxes found in most quads has serious issues with stripping. Power Wheels themselves switched to the stronger #7 gearboxes in 2004 and later quads, most likely due to warranty issues.

That said we have run an early bigfoot on 18 volts for 4 years now with zero gearbox or motor failures. Again, we don't use traction bands, have a brake pedal (so the tires don't lock every time the gas pedal is released) and most of the driving is done on level pavement.

One of the reasons I developed the "nitrous button" mod was to reduce the intital torque on the gearbox when the tire is at a standstill. The progressive torque application of the nitrous button mod stresses the gearbox much less than a straight 18 volts. If you can apply 18 volts when the vehicle is already moving, you are less likey to strip the gearbox.

You need to keep in mind that these are very cheaply made plastic toys. Pretty much everything on them will break eventually.

Chris Bischof
Southlake, TX
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, September 05, 2005 - 03:19 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, September 03, 2005 - 08:19 pm:

well I gave the 18 volts a try, wow, there is a differance.

I ran a ups 12 volt 12 amp and a ups 6 volt 12 amp.

I let them run for 5 laps around the yard, wires seemed good and one power wheel had a motor warmer than the other, so I pulled the 6 volt back out.

Since I dont have a supply of extra motors, it was a test.

Id like to know who has been running it 18 volts, long term on the 12 volt motors and what they have ran into, (in the yard)

sporty

Wendellt
Username: Wendellt

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 02, 2005 - 07:00 pm:

THANK YOU!

Posted on Friday, September 02, 2005 - 04:01 pm:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
here is the link to take you right there -http://ryanhull.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?t=47

I just used the 12volt diagram on the page, I took my wiring harness completely off and the switches and followed that diagram and that was it really.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 02, 2005 - 04:01 pm:

here is the link to take you right there -http://ryanhull.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?t=47

I just used the 12volt diagram on the page, I took my wiring harness completely off and the switches and followed that diagram and that was it really.

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 02, 2005 - 03:56 pm:

sure, no problem,

1st there is another webv site - http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php?sid=b480dbc2109eed5c892b9758ce2c0378

on it you will find that info.

My power wheel has 2, twitches, reversere forward and then fast and slow and that link will get you to the site find that info, i think its under powr wheel mods.

sporty

Wendellt
Username: Wendellt

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, September 02, 2005 - 03:22 pm:

I did the 2 (6 volt) battery conversion today to the 12 volt conversion.

Was not to bad, seems to work better and faster.

Sporty

Did you do a rewire? If yes, would you mind telling me how?
Thanks.

Wendell

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 10:46 pm:

I did the 2 (6 volt) battery conversion today to the 12 volt conversion.

Was not to bad, seems to work better and faster.

Sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 04:23 pm:

how can i understand the numbers on the motor's ?

motor 1 has pn 39 00 02 (6482505) It might have dn before the 64, was ahrd to read the first 2)

motor 2 has 80039 0043 (dn516424)

motor 3 has 74440 (dn548105)

was hoping to understand if all these motors are 12 volt and if there is something different from 1 to the other

Wendellt
Username: Wendellt

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 04:47 pm:

I have recently acquired an old Kawasaki Quad Power Wheels. It has 2 red 6volt batteries but batteries seems to be dead. It has the HI/LOW & FORWARD/REVERSE switches. My question is instead of getting 2 6volt batteries. Can I just install a 12volt battery on it?

Not without rewiring it, no. You can buy 2 replacement batteries off E-bay with the proper "A" connectors for about $30-40 shipped. If you have a working Power Wheels charger, this isn't too bad of an option.

You can Rewire the vehicle for about $10 and buy a 12 volt battery for about $20-25 so total cost would be about the same. You can buy a 12 volt battery with greater Amp Hours than the factory 9.5 AH, for longer run times, but you give up the ease of use of the Power Wheels batteries, unless you retain the connectors.

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Thank you for the response.
Will the rewiring be difficult and need some additional parts? Can I do this myself? If given proper instructions, I think I would be able to do it myself. I also think I would prefer a 12v battery to replace original batteries. Would you be able to provide me with instructions?
Thanks again,

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 10:39 pm:

Wendellt
Username: Wendellt

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 04:52 pm:

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 04:16 pm:

HI, I HAVE AN OLDER MODEL POWER WHEEL BARBIE JEEP. I HAVE THE GREY COLORED 12V. BATTERY. THE PROBLEM IS THAT WE MISPLACED THE CHARGER AND WE NEED TO GET A NEW ONE. WE GO TO TOYS R US AND THEY ONLY CARRY THE ONE THAT HAS A SINGLE PLUG IN ADAPTER OURS HAS THE DOUBLE PLUG IN. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERe WE CAN GET THE CHARGER WE NEED. WE HAVE LOOKED EVERYWHERE. THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLY CAUSE IM AT A LOSS HERE. I WOULD SAY THE BARBIE JEEP IS ABOUT 5 YEARS OLD. THANKS

All Grey Power Wheels 12 volt "cube" batteries charge with the "probe" charger. Even though the battery uses a large plug on the wiring harness, the probe charger is used to charge them.

If your Vehicle is pre-cube batteries, it would have Dual 6volt batteries with "H" (small white) or "A" (large black) connectors.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

ROBIN GRAVES

Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 03:08 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2005 - 11:43 am:

I awoke to one of those powetron batteries, dead. So I got one bad battery out of two. I have sent some e-mails to sunnbattery.

Ill wait there responce, Have to exchange out.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2005 - 07:56 pm:

Battery continous run time, around 40 minutes.

So it's drawing around 20 amp's, give or take a amp or two.

If you added another one, if there was enough room, on the eleminator there is not enough room, unless I did some mods to the plastic to see if I could add 2 going up and down instead of sideways.

The other battery looks like it's going to be okay. almost fully charged now. I would say at 2amps, between 5 - 6.5 hours for dead battery.

My charger only has a 2,10 and 20 amp charger. So I could not try at 4 amps. And I felt 10amps was way to much to try and charge at.

sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2005 - 05:37 pm:

The sunn batteries arrived today, (2) 12volt 12ah battereies.

1 arrived charged and ready to go, the other I think is DOA on arrival. May have to send back for exchange. I have been charging for 4 hours at 2amps and dont seem to be charging.

However,

I already installed the battery into the power wheel eliminator.

Here is what I did -

I cut off the factory battery connector, but left enough wire to use again with connectors.

I then installed 14 inches of black and red wire. red to white and black to black.

I added a 30 amp fuse on the red wire, i soldered with 1/2 of the each wire soldered together. Then heat shrinked and electrical tape wrapped.

I used 14 guage wire and ever 4 laps around the yard I have checked and the wires are not warm and no warm spots at the connectors yet.

He's been riding for 20 minutes and I will post more info, if needed, Meaning if the wire gets hot, then I will change to 12 gauge wire.

I will also post on how long the battery lasts and so forth.

Sporty

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2005 - 12:54 pm:

thanks, chris.

I plan on comparing the 12volt power wheel harness with the 2(6volt) battery harness.

My batteries i ordered have not came yet, sunn batteries seems to ship slowly.

where our you getting the slightly faster motors at ?

I saw this link - for motors, wondered what you or others thought. got it from ryans web site.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=400&item=DCM-231&typ e=storethe

I also with be recieving 2 (19t) motors and gear boxes, Im hoping to install them on the older kawaski ninja 4 wheeler (this is the one that has the 2- 6volt batteries.

But since the gear box has a different shape, i may have to wait and see if i can use them. or if the gears will work inside the older gear case.

I also picked up another power wheel yesterday, almost like knew. for $20.00. its the newer 12volt kawaski ninja.

So Know I got 4 for all the kids.

If I get sometime ill post some pictures.

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, August 26, 2005 - 11:56 pm:

recently ordered 2 12volt 12 amp UPS batteries. What fuse should I add in to it ? I didn not think i would need one since the org batts are 12volt 9.5 amp.

Never put a battery in a Power Wheels without a fuse. Factory Power Wheels batteries have internal circuit breakers.

Contacts corrode, corroded contacts heat up enough to melt wires, melted wires can cause shorts, shorts without a fuse cause fires.

I have 2 12 volts and 1 2-6volts. I want to turn it into a 12volt, the kawasaki ninja 4 wheeler. You say just turn the wiring harness around ?

sporty

You physically have to turn the harness around, but it is a little more complicated than that (but not much). I don't think I said "just" turn the harness around.

If you have a Power Wheel with a single 12 volt battery, you will see the harness is very similar to the early dual six volt battery harnesses, only reversed, with the 4 battery wires now the motor wires and the two motor wires now the battery wires (with the brake wire slightly changed.)

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, August 26, 2005 - 11:42 pm:

Hi I have a power wheels red jeep wrangler 12v with the two buttons
one for hi and lo and the other one for forward and reverse but
even with new batters the thing does not go very fast does not seem
like it goes 5mph at all my next door neighbours got the barbie jeep
and the thing go's alot faster is there anything
I can do?

thank you.

All "Wranglers" came from the factory with a shifter. If the Jeep you have has dash buttons, it is actually a metal framed Jeep CJ-5, which was introduced by Kransco Power Wheels in the late 80's.

If it's running slow, make sure both motors are turning in high speed. The Motor connectors were not soldered back then and there is a good chance, one motor isn't pulling it's weight.

If both motors seem to work, make sure the switch contacts are all clean and both high and low speed work. Have the child drive it around a bit and check for excess heat in the wiring.

If their are no obvious problems, and the vehicle is still slow, you may need to replace the motors/gearboxes.

Most CJ-5's were equipped with 13T Pinion #4 Gearboxes with 700 series motors. Because of this, there isn't a readily available cheap motor replacement. Their are some killer, high dollar upgrades, but $4.00 replacement motors for this gearbox don't exist.

Because of this, I recommend switching to the #7 gearboxes used in the newer Unibody Wranglers. You can swap in replacement motors and easily run 7+ mph on the stock 12 volts.

You usually can purchase a pair of #7 Gearboxes from Ebay (19T would net 5 mph with the stock motors/7.5 mph with upgraded motors) for $30-40.

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, August 26, 2005 - 04:00 pm:

Daprocop,

I have ran into this myself, I ordered and I am awaiting the arrival of some 12volt 12 amp ups batteries. Although the speed increase will be very little, it should give me a longer run time. As you may have read some of the posts below.

Some are adding in 18volt batteries for more speed and some have even dared on the 24v battery.

I went the safe route, but if you want to try 18volt ups batterry, just look on e-bay for them. They are cheaper than a regular power wheel battery and are sealed batteries.

just type in for your search- ups battery.

sporty

Daprocop
Username: Daprocop

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, August 26, 2005 - 02:00 pm:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 05:58 pm:

thanks ryan,

My kids go thru motors often, they get stuck and just keep on spinning the wheels. thats how they burn up on us. Have you lost any motors due to running more volts yet ?

i would really like to try getting it faster, without loosing more motors. Cuz I know them running them in the yard, they bog down and are not going no 5mhp.

sporty

Ryan Hull

Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 04:55 pm:

Oops, forgot your part about the charging cycle.

I would recommend heading to WalMart or your local AutoZone/Advance Auto Parts, and pickup a cheap 2/4 Amp 12volt Battery charger. I think I bought one for $19. They allow a precise charge, and they are much faster than that horrible charger that comes with the Powerwheels stock battery. in fact, if it takes that stock charged 18 hours to charge, it should only take appx 4.5 hours to charge on the 4 Amp setting, and only 9 Hours on the 4 Amp setting.

You mileage may vary. Some would say to only charge at 2 Amp, but have seen no difference in reliability with the 4 Amp charging cycle.

Also, those computer-controlled chargers usually have a feature that provides a "float" charge. Where basically, it stops charging when the battery is full, but continuously monitors the battery, and provides a "top-off" charge when needed. This allows you to keep it hooked up for days, and not have to worry about it getting cooked.

Ryan Hull
www.ryanhull.com

Ryan Hull

Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 04:50 pm:

Sporty:
You definetly need an in-line fuse: The Amp-Hour rating is simply a statement of total power available, (i.e. it can provide 9.5 Amps for 1 Hour)
And your new batteries will provide 12 Amps for 1 hour.)

However, these little babies draw a little bit more than 9.5 or 12 amps. In fact, I believe they can draw up to 23-27 Amps, depending on terrain, and rider weight.

So let's say it takes 25 amps of draw. That means your little 12 Amp/Hour battery is going to provide 25 Amps for 30 minutes. Roughly half.

The reason for the fuse (30 AMP) is to protect the motors from themselves. They will draw as much as that battery will provide. So if the battery can supply 30 Amps, even if just for 15 minutes, they will take it. And the wiring of the Jeep, switches and motors will eventually arc/burn/fry.

Also, the safety fuse is there to protect the kids, etc. If something goes wrong with the wiring harnesses, switches, etc, it will open the circuit and prevent a rolling fireball of toddlers.

So go pick one up today from your neighborhood hardware store. I believe the best to get is one made by Buss�. They offer the 30 Amp model, and you can buy the inline harness for it as well. Total sale should be about $6.00

Good luck with your Mods, and feel free to stop by my Powerwheels Modification Website. http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php

Ryan Hull
The God of Internet Radio Broadcasting

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 03:17 pm:

I recently ordered 2 12volt 12 amp UPS batteries. What fuse should I add in to it ? I didn not think i would need one since the org batts are 12volt 9.5 amp.

I have 2 12 volts and 1 2-6volts. I want to turn it into a 12volt, the kawasaki ninja 4 wheeler. You say just turn the wiring harness around ?

Also, how long do you trickle charge the 12 volts for ? i dont have a 6 volt trikle charger so i might have to buy one for them.

sporty

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 12:01 am:

First of all, thanks to all who responded to my posts. My kids thoroughly enjoyed riding around tonight on their Power Wheels. It's been a long time for them. My question now is, how do I tell which model of Jeep I have (for purposes of ordering replacement parts). I thought I had a 74020-9993 model because it looked the same as what I have, and the timeline (1999) seemed right; but the one I have is not a 12-volt one battery system, as the 74020 models are. There are no stickers on the machine itself; so how does one tell without the stickers of what the model is? I'd like to order some replacement motors for when the time comes to replace them. Are they interchangeable from one model to another???

The Jeep is red in color with yellow accents and it used to have a gold eagle (with wings spread) sticker on the hood itself. It has black plastic seats, a metal roll bar in the rear and it has two sets of white switches on the dash and two yellow pedals, although one is missing a pedal (but I assuem it would be yellow as well). It looks like a Wrangler model Jeep, but it doesn't say it on its face. Thanks for any further help.

Aaron

The Jeep you are describing is a Maroon 1988-89 (not '99) metal framed CJ-5 Golden Eagle like a Model 86200. Only these very early Kransco models had two pedal operation, which went away around 1990. In '97, PW Jeeps went to unibody construction and go rid of the metal frame and would have a shifter (no dash switches).

Your Jeep would have 700 series motors and 13T pinion #4 gearboxes. Though these are pretty strong gearboxes (except for the plastic pinions) and the motors will take a lot of volts, the newer #7 gearboxes (kidney shaped)will swap in with little trouble, be quieter, faster and will allow easy swaps with cheap and readily available 550 series motors.

My son's Monster Jeep was an originally a CJ-5 Golden Eagle:

http://ungn.net/images/jeeper.jpg

http://ungn.net/images/sblade3.jpg

http://UNGN.net/icemonster.WMV

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Ajpdla
Username: Ajpdla

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 10:31 pm:

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 01:56 pm:

hello all..
i have acquired an old power wheels jeep in unknown condition (read: i picked it up on the side of the road) it has the twin 6 volt battery set up. is this a 12 volt system or a 6 volt parallel system? the reason i ask is that i have access to all kinds of back ups batteries at work and would like to know which would be best for my application? 6 volts or 12 volts?

If the Vehicle is equipped with a shifter, you can hook a single 12 volt battery up to it, regardless if it was originally equipped with two 6 volt batteries or a single 12 volt battery and it will still have high/low speed and low speed only reverse.

The White or Red wires are the Positive, the Black or Blue are Negative.

If it does NOT have a shifter, you will need to rewire it to "Parallel/Series Motor" operation to use a single 12 volt battery. You can, however use two 6 volt UPS batteries in place of the originals, if you properly fuse them.

Chris Bischof
Username: Ungn

Registered: N/A

Posted on Tuesday, August 23, 2005 - 01:39 pm:

I am in the process of putting back together my son's powerwheels Jeep and I stumbled across this site. Amazing information. Can't wait to pimp my son's ride. First, however, can someone PLEASE tell me the wiring diagram for the four wires (black, blue, white, and yellow) which are inside the battery compartment. The Jeep uses two batteries to operate with a switch allowing more power once, well, switched. There is also a reverse switch. While on the subject, I need a replacement pedal (yellow) for this Jeep. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks. I can be reached at ajpdla@earthlink.net

Your Vehicle uses what is known as "Parallel/Series Batteries" or "4 battery wire" operation. Most metal framed PW Jeeps and early quads use this wiring method. The High/Low switch switches between 12 volts(batteries in series) and 6 volts (batteries in parrallel). Disconnecting the high speed wire under the dash keeps the batteries from being put into series, so the motors only get 12 volts.

All unibody 12 volt Jeeps (even those originally equipped with two 6 volt batteries) are "Parallel/Series Motors" or "2 battery wire" vehicles. High speed puts the motors in parallel, so each see's 12 volts. Low speed puts the motors in series, so the 12 volts is shared between the two motors. This is why one motor can come to a complete stop on newer power wheels in low and reverse. The advantage to this wiring scheme is you can use a single 12 volt battery. The only real disavantage is that it can get stuck in low speed (when one tire stops and the other spins).

Converting a "4 wire battery" vehicle to a "2 Wire battery" isn't very hard, but does require the wiring harness be removed from the vehicle and "turned around" with the 4 battery wires becoming the new motor wires and the two motor wires becoming the battery wires.

The Best Place I have found for Repalcement Pedal assemblies is http://mendingshed.com

Hope this helps,

Chris Bischof
http://UNGN.net

Ajpdla
Username: Ajpdla

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 07:01 pm:

Where can I find shematics for older Powerwheels equipment? I have an ATV which I took apart awhile back and, go figure, I can't remember how to put it back together. Can someone help me out here? TIA. I can be reached at ajpdla@earthlink.net

Ajpdla
Username: Ajpdla

Registered: N/A

Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 06:47 pm:

Jmaroon
Username: Jmaroon

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 10:18 am:

Sporty
Username: Sporty

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 12:30 am:

I have 3 power wheels, the kawaski bike (12) volt, the kawaski 4 wheeler, takes (2) 6v bateries and the eleminator (12v)

I would like to know of long term use on them being modified. And someone who not only has done so, but what battery they using and model number and bought where at ? this helps me in buying and deciding.

YA I cant see paying $12 for cd either. But sure I would like to see it run a little faster, My kids ride them in the yard and seems to bog down in the yard, thats why i thought little more speed would help.

Also ya 18 hours charging and 20- 40 minutes of ride time, sucks for the kids.

Also has anyone tried better motors and if so where they bought them at and model number ?

and some of you are saying 12 volts, 8amp is still safe ? I ask cuz on the 12 volt battery on top it says 9.5 amp per hour, is that the carge rate or what it is sending out per hour ?

sporty

robert sanchez

Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 09:34 pm:

hi i would like to know if anyone has seen or built a powerwheelsmodified witha gas motor, ya know like a weedwhacker engine or something. if you know a website where i can find that kind of thing lemme know. thanks

Dave McC.

Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 03:34 pm:

I saw a couple of people in the thread asking about how to charge your Power Wheels batteries, and forgot to put it in my last post.
The batteries (and this applies to all the batteries form the 6v 4ah through the 12v 12ah) come from the factory with a "shelf charge" on them. This is for the time spent in shipment, warehousing, etc. The batteries need to be fully charged before their first use! This is important! Using the shelf charge off of the battery can cause premature failure, or they might not charge at all.
The normal charge time for the batteries is between 16 and 20 hours, 18 hours is the easiest to remember. If you put the batteries on charge at 6 in the evening, they will be done by noon the next day.
You want to make sure that you charge the batteries for AT LEAST 14 hours, but NOT MORE THAN 24 hours. You can damage the batteries by either under, or over charging them. Now I know that Power Wheels reccomends not charging past 30 hours, but I like to reccomend 24 hrs. to my customers because- you won't get anything out of the last 6 hours and, you don't need a calculator to figure out when they need to be off by.
If you are going to store the vehicle for any extended time, say your'e going to store it for the winter, you want to charge the batteries for 18 hours before you put it away, then come back every 4-6 weeks and put an 18 hour charge on the batteries whether they've been used or not. This is also important! If the bateries are left sitting without a charge for very long, they will go down and stay down!
Following these rules, I've seen people get 7 or 8 years out of their batteries!
Remeber, if you've got any questions, you can e-mail me or call me at work tues. thru fri. 9-5 cst at (314) 647-4250
Thanks!
Dave

Dave McC.

Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 03:07 pm:

How-do everybody! I have a feeling I might be of some help here. I'm currently an authorized service center for Power Wheels and have been a service tech. for Power Wheels for around twenty years now. I'm located in St. Louis MO. I try to keep most all available parts in stock, and what I don't have, I can usually get.
There are a few things you might want to keep in mind when modifying your vehicles. Vehicles that were made as six volt systems normally will fry when you try running them at twelve volts. The main harness on these vehicles use a higher guage (smaller diameter) wire than the twelve volt harnesses. They can be suseptable to melt down from the higher current that larger, and 12v. batteries can supply.
It seems that a popular modification is replacing the stock batteries with atv, tractor, automotive, motorcycle batteries and so on. Some timesthis can be done sucsessfully, but you must remember that the motors will pull as much current as they can be supplied with. So, say you've got a tractor battery in your jeep that is rated at 50-60 ah, the jeep will really get with the picture, and pull hills much better than it's stock counterparts. But at the same time, the motors, which normally will be limited to pulling around 20-25 amps, can now get as much as 75-80 amps from the battery. These motors (especially the 05 variety) used in most vehicles manufactured after 1990, will do fine for a short time, but WILL eventually melt down as well as taking out the harness and switches with them. The motors used on the older jeeps were of the 075 size and are markedly bigger than the newer ones. These are the ones that can run on 18vdc without too much trouble, as long as the amperage is kept around 30A or less.
Modifying these babies is a blast! I did a barbie lamborghini for my granddaughter, completely modified out to operate at twelve volts. It's got the harness out of a jeep, the motor/gearboxes from a ninja. It goes about seven mph,,,,in reverse!
I've seen alot in the time that I've been a Power Wheels tech. If anybody has any questions or if your'e looking for parts give me a scream at authappl@sbcglobal.net

Matt
Username: 59junior

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, August 19, 2005 - 08:57 am:

A POWER WHEELS CUSTOM SHOP FORUM??!!??!! YOU PEOPLE ARE SICK, I love it. Hello I just bought a used power wheel jeep wrangler(red)W/ batteries and charger fer 25 bucks.The people said it needed new batteries so Im investing another fifty bucks for two 6volt batteries. I want to just get up and running first and do some Mods. later. whats up with some having 12 volt and others having two 6 volt batteries? I am fully looking forward to beefing her up so nice to meetyall

JIM ROGERS

Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 02:52 pm:

I JUST FOUND A JEEP POWER MODEL862C0 IN THE TRASH IT IS MISSING AFEW PARTS I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE I COULD FIND THESE PARTS.

Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 09:06 pm:

Power-Wheels Brand Batteries
Add 00801-1048 12 12 4.25 5.5 5.25 10 $69.95
Description: 12 Volt "Gray" Battery

Add 00801-0638 12 9.5 4.25 5.5 5.25 8 $69.95
Description: 12 Volt "Gray" Battery

see, 12v.

Rob Mack

Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 08:50 pm:

The gentleman who repaired our first powerwheel (authorized repair facility) told me the motors are capable of handling 18 volts. I have run them on 18v, they get alittle hot, but still run good. I dont like them running hot, so Im using 12. I took out the car battery and installed a tractor battery from Auto Zone. The car battery was too much for the gearboxes.I have been running it all day and no problems. Has anyone else done this ? How can I put pictures in here ?

Watash
Username: Watash

Registered: 09-2000

Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 03:18 am:

Rob, try using the 6 volt batteries made for Golf Carts. They will hold a charge and not burn up the wiring switches and motors in your cars. These are the size of 12 volt car batteries, and are still lead/acid so if the car turns over, there is still a good chance a kid could be burned or blinded by spilled acid.

Not a good idea to turn 12 volts loose on a 6 volt motor! That is like hooking up your house lights to a 220 volt power line! This is easily demonstrated by using some child's toy that runs on a couple of flashlight batteries. Remove the batteries, attach a wire to the two terminals from the toy to your car's battery. The result will make a lasting impression of how dangerous it is trying to use 12v batteries in your Power Wheels around children! (Just in case one of you do try this, do use a face shield, wear gloves and expect to burn your fingers and probably the paint on your Dad's car!)

If you connect a 6v and a 12v battery in series to try to get 18v, it will burn up the plates inside the 6v battery! If you connect in parallel, the 6v might blow up!

Look in your Yellow Pages under "Casters and Wheels" for a supplier in your town. The ones here carry all the sizes you could dream of for replacement use on Lawn Mowers, two-wheel carts, furniture dollies etc. Some have rubber tires like a jid's coaster wagon or trike, others have air-up type of sizes from 4" rims up to bicycles (for wheel chairs). Some have ball-bearing hubs, others have bronze bushings, some have plain hubs for driving under power.

Rob Mack

Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 01:54 am:

I have just installed a car battery in my sons jeep wrangler. It was simple. I had to cut out some plastic to make it fit, but it was easy. It goes faster than his older brothers kawasakie ninja pw. We also re-painted the whole thing. That new plastic paint works good. Today we are going to install headlights, roll-bar-lights and a horn. He is having so much fun, and so am I. He has the best looking power wheel i have ever seen. Now his brother wants us to do it to his.My only question is how do you put rubber wheels on ? Should I use lawnmower wheels, wheel barrel ? If anyone has done this please let me know.

Jayb
Username: Jayb

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2005 - 05:20 pm:

Subject: Replacement gears for gearbox

We have a Hedstrom "Night Heat" Power Rider that has worked great for past 5 years.

Now a tooth in one gear from the gearbox is broken.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement gear or entire gearbox for this toy, or suggest alternatives for fixing this.

You can also email me at automan1900@yahoo.com

Manny Rivera

Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 - 04:41 pm:

I'm sure this has been done before, so any input or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I want to install headlights on my Daughters Barbie Jeep. What is the best way to do this? Should I draw the power from the batteries (12 & 6 Volt) or should I just install a new battery just for the lights?

Which type of lights work best?

Michlward
Username: Michlward

Registered: N/A

Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2005 - 09:13 pm:

Does anyone know how to convert a Power Sonic rechargable battery for Power Wheels use? It has the positive and negative plugs on top of the battery and notches for the connector cords to run. Is it ok (safe) to pop the top off of it to wire the connector in? Help!

Bruce Spratling
Username: Bruce

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, June 16, 2005 - 09:51 am:

I hope someone answers the question about charging. I know a little about batteries, and a lead acid battery needs to be kept fully charged all the time to maximize it's life. Overcharging is bad. Summer, I'd check that the terminals are clean and the the wires are connected good to the posts. When you plug in the charger, is it making good contact? If the battery is pretty much run down, I think I'd charge it for 12 hour or so. I assume the charger is 500 ma (one half amp). What is the amp hours of your batteries? If your battery is 10 amp hours, using a 500 ma charger, you'll need
24 hours to charge (I THINK, I'm not sure so if someone can add to this, please do). When storing for the winter, I'd bring the batteries in the house, and put them on a trickle charger. They sell chargers that automatically shut off when the battery is fully charged, I believe this would be ideal. If you need help you might ask a boater if you know one, boat batteries are lead acid batteries like power-wheels. You could just have a bad battery, you might take it to a battery store and have it
tested. I hope someone else adds to this thread, I need to learn more too. Good luck!

Summer
Username: Summer

Registered: N/A

Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 02:01 pm:

I have 3 power wheels (jeep, harley and the truck) I ALWAYS mess up on the batteries, I can never charge them right. Sometimes I over charge others under charge and my kids will get maybe 10 minutes of fun before the batteries die. They were stored this winter,.new last summer, and now that I have them on the charger now, what is the perfect time to charge? I would appreciate any help on this lowly topic.
Thanks !
Summer

Bruce Spratling

Posted on Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 04:21 pm:

Jason,
Sorry I can't help. It does seem to me that it's always a good idea to fuse a large battery like that. You may have a total loss on your hands, but I'd like to thank you for sharing, at least I may be able to avoid the same problem. I'm thinking about using 12volts in some 6volt vehicles myself. On the positive side, be glad your battery didn't explode!

jgray

Posted on Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 02:37 pm:

I tried using a 12v ATV batery, not sure of the amps. I almost had a total melt down. I melted half the wires and melted the guts of the high low switch. What in the world did I do wrong?? Its a older atv Power wheels, i was using he 2 6v red battery set-up, but they don't last very long. Can I salvage this, or is it a total loss ?? Can anyone help ?? please email if you can !!

Thanks
Jason

bully1

Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2005 - 12:23 am:

I am having a problem with the switch. I keep burning them up. I put starter switch in it and it keeps burning it up. It is for 12v. Don't know if to many amps or what? Is anyone else rewiring and changing switches?

Ryan Hull

Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2005 - 12:50 pm:

Hey folks, after the wave of support from people here about modifying their powerwheels or simply seeking advice about maintenance and upgrades, I've created a section on my website dedicated soley to this Hobby.
You can access it by going here. Now don't worry, It's pretty new, so there aren't a lot of posts yet, but feel free to ask questions, post pictures, and everything else pertaining to Powerwheels toys.

http://www.ryanhull.com/forums2/index.php

You should see a section called Pimp my powerwheels. Check out what's in there already, and post away. I look forward to speaking to everyone!

Ryan Hull

Bruce
Username: Bruce

Registered: N/A

Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 09:55 pm:

Lots of good info here. I bought my first power wheels lil quad last week-end. My 2 and 3 year old grandsons were fighting over it so I bought another one, $58 each at walmart.

Questions: what is a good, cheap replacement battery, preferably larger for more life? From what I've read, you can just drop in a 12 volt for more power, but I'd like to stick to 6 until they get older. Also, are there any other web sites other than the ones already mentioned in this thread about power wheels?

roger

Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2005 - 10:31 pm:

http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T018/ This site shows how to put rubber wheels on. It does not show exactly but if you have any business doing it you can figure it out!

mlepage

Posted on Friday, April 29, 2005 - 12:22 pm:

Has anyone done any chassis or suspension mods? In addition to rubber tires, it would be nice to add a suspension with springs or something, to smooth out the ride.

mlepage

Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2005 - 06:15 pm:

By the way, what would be the implications of putting in one (or two) of those 6-subC-cell RC battery packs, NiCd or NiMH, say 2.4 to 3.2 AH capacity? Is this a good or bad idea?

mlepage

Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2005 - 06:08 pm:

I just got a Power Wheels Lil Quad for my 2.5 yr old daughter. It's 6V, 2mph. After she gets used to it, I'll probably be interested in increasing the voltage and maybe installing rubber tires.

I have RC car experience so I'm not too worried about installing new batteries or wiring. I just want to be sure to get an appropriate battery (amperage, capacity, etc.).

How far over 40lbs weight can these things take? Right now she's 30lbs so it should last this summer, but I'm not sure about next summer. Is there any way to reinforce it so it can take more weight?

bill gant

Posted on Monday, April 18, 2005 - 08:12 pm:

need help with a wiring problem that is in a kawasaki super shock dirt bike. information on how to test the wiring because the 12v battery is not suppling the motors. thanks
_BILL_

DeMille Madoux

Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 05:20 am:

I need a motor for a Hedstrom Power Rider Jeep. Are they the same as power wheels? Or if not could I replace both with power wheels motors? I haven't pulled the motor off yet--is this difficult or are there any tricks I should know? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
dmadoux@cox.net

michelle66

Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 - 11:09 pm:

Have a power wheel that has a wiring problem. Three wires come from the charger plug in and the short wire is not connected. Need to know where this wire is to go so that I can get my machine working.

Nickelle

Posted on Monday, January 31, 2005 - 05:25 pm:

hey i want to make my barbie jeep go way fast it goes about 5mph right now and i was wondering how to get it to go fast. i dont understand all the mechanic talk stuff so if you could explain it to me that would be awesome and i have a Power Wheels Barbie Take Along Tunes Jeep with a 12v battery. if you need more info here...http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/detail/-/toys/B00006IJIH/qid%3D11072 10183/sr%3D11-1/ref%3Dsr%5F11%5F1/002-3079019-1114417 thanks.

Chez Tortony

Posted on Friday, January 28, 2005 - 03:12 pm:

The CD that the guy sells on how to mod you powerwheels is well worth the money. It covers all sorts of mods and has detailed wiring diagrams and everything. A must have for anyone looking to mod there powerwheels!! Check out UNGN.com to find it.

jasncab Jason Huber

Posted on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 08:57 pm:

I souped up my daughters jeep powerwheel this weekend. I bought it when she was 2, so I didnt want anything to fast. I have about $100 total into this machine. For details of the process check out http://www.jasncab.com/huberblog
Just search for powerwheels.

Basically it was a 6V unit and I wanted to double the speed. I also needed to be able to charge whatever battery I put into it. For $25 I bought a new 6V battery and hooked it in a series with the other battery. I then had 14V output (I know it doesnt add up, but I used DMM).

Swizzlestick

Posted on Saturday, January 15, 2005 - 05:55 pm:

My son has a powerwheel, Barbie sunsplash jeep that has one wheel that is locked. I am thinking that the problem lies within the gear box but can not figure out to open it. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

email: swizzlestick@syix.com

Thank you!!
Swizz

john masters

Posted on Saturday, January 15, 2005 - 03:29 pm:

I just bought the Little Tikes Hummer. My son has a hard time with the steering wheel. It is very hard to turn. I have read many articles on the same issue. Is there a way to fix this issue?

joebolis

Posted on Saturday, January 01, 2005 - 10:17 pm:

my kids have been shifting back and forth without stopping inbetween on the Kow ninja. Now it sounds like an egg beater when they start off. I assume the gearing is worn down. I have not taken it apart yet, figuring something will pop out and never to be found(haha). I figure it needs a new gear mechanism but supposed that I see a licenced service center($$$). Any sources besides ebay on parts like this and will sell to a consumer such as me. Thank you

Ryan Hull
Username: Ryanhull

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, December 23, 2004 - 02:29 pm:

"Pimp Your Powerwheels'
Oh how long I've waited to find a thread like this one.

I've got a page on my website about "pimping" my son's powerwheels jeep. It's one of those dual 6v jobs.

I'm having some trouble following the wiring diagram to switch from 6-12 volts though. I want to make this an 12V/24v system, and I'm not sure how I would do this.

Any ideas on how to hook this up? I wish we could find wiring diagrams for these things. Or at least a circuit diagram for the dpdt rocker switches. I really need to be able to test my switches, as I think they are bad. When I hook a battery directly to the motor, they spin just fine. When the battery is hooked up to the wiring harness, nothing happens.

Also, I'm rewiring the entire thing with heavier gauge wire. Seems that 24v makes the existing wiring a bit "hot."

Thanks for any information about getting this thing rolling.
And check out my website for information on my project progress.
http://www.ryanhull.com/powerwheels.htm

Merry Christmas!

Ryan

Gary

Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2004 - 10:40 am:

Go here for modification info/CD

http://perfauto.tripod.com/powerwheels.html

Paul

Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2004 - 07:40 pm:

looking to soup up my daughters 6 volt wrangler I want rubber tires, more speed, and another motor on the rear wheel (only one live wheel now) any info to help me on what tires and wheels to get, motors, gear boxes, and where to get them would be great

Jeff Porfirio
Username: Jeffporfirio

Registered: N/A

Posted on Friday, October 22, 2004 - 12:02 pm:

Im sorry if I`m posting as a newbie.
My son has a Power Wheels (my First Roadster) charged by a 6V 9.5 AH battery, which is now dead. I am thinking of hooking it up to a 6V or 12 V, with generic lead acid, whith a higher AH rating.
A few questions hoping that you may be able to help:

- Can I charge the replacement battery with the same charger if it has the same voltage rating, but higher A-H rating ?
- What will the higher A-H rating do ? will it make the battery last longer ?
- What will the higher Voltage rating do ? Will it make it run faster ?
- I have read here the motors will are designed for 18 V, so I suppose 12 V wont hurt. If I get a 12 V, can I charge it with a Car battery Charger, and if so, for how long should I charge?
- Last question, what rating fuse should I use, I imagine the same voltage as the Battery, but dont know what amp rating, and if it should in line with which terminal (pos. or neg.) ???

By the way many thanks ?

roger

Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 03:45 pm:

I do not have any of the brand new ones but the old ones have locks on the gear shift. SOme are a plastic plug and some use a screw. On a 12v pw , there should be 3 positions of the shifter. If you only have 2 ,look for a plug or screw.Any auto lights should work both are 12v. Fog lights come usually with switches and wires.

Brian
Username: Macdad69

Registered: N/A

Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 03:10 am:

I understand all the wiring specs you have mentioned, but what do the new boxes mean when they say they have a highspeed lockout? I just want to make it go a little faster. My daughter doesn't need to race, and besides that, if it goes too fast, she'd have to fight the boys off, lol. Also, does anybody have ideas for headlights on the Barbie models? I have temporarily mounted flashlights under the front panels and put two flashing lights on the back so the local idiots will see us. Any suggestions welcome.

roger

Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 01:18 am:

www.geocities.com/alexpowerwheel/

rogergriffin

Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2004 - 02:40 am:

The batteries in power wheels are 12 and 6 volts.Some use 2 6volt batteries wired in series to get 12 volts. (Flash lights example)AA battery 1.5 volts each battery .Put together in series 3volts . + terminal to - terminal in series .If done with 3 6volt power wheel batteries you get the 18volt max for motors.You can use many types of batteries . The only limit is size. Motorcycle , car ,battery backup units (ups). Measure or take the pw with you to store and see what will fit . Put the right connections on for the battery . All these batteries can be charged with car battery charger if voltage is same . Some charge both 6 and 12 volts. Toy r us now sells a 18volt battery for a mini motorcycle ($44).

rogergriffin

Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2004 - 02:24 am:

power wheels have 18volt motors. both the 12 and 6 volt type can use 18volts. I would not buy $12 CD to tell you how to do this . The black wire is negative and the white wire positive . the white wire is sometimes pink. I have taken many apart and have 10 of them in my yard. I am building a web site on how to modify power wheels. Info will be free. It will have info about battery change ,gears , motors and the little white cube that keeps them from rolling freely.24 volts will burn out the motors 18volts is max!!! The motors are all the same but there are many types of drive gears that are pressed on.The drive gear can be removed with a punch and a slotted piece of metal.

Jimmy Wilson

Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2004 - 09:27 pm:

How much current does the most powerful power wheels motor need?

Jackie

Posted on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 - 09:36 am:

Just a mom with questions about Power Wheels 300HS. I just got a used one for my son who is turning 3. I'm looking for any information someone might have about it. What year did they come out? What is the weight allowance? Maintenance type info, etc... if you have any info I would really appreciate it.

Chris

Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 02:03 pm:

For Matt,

Did you have to swap out the motors to run 24v batts or did you run them in parallel to drive 12v? I'm interested in putting just an 18v battery into our unit.

matt

Posted on Friday, August 06, 2004 - 07:00 pm:

thats nothing.. i put two 24 volt batteries into my power wheels. it now goes about 15 miles per hour but it frequently overheats. i had to put rubber tires on the front so i could turn. i also melted the wires and i had to rewire it

mishama

Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 11:38 pm:

There is a web site called wil's power wheel and the guy has a cd for $12 that shows you how to sup up the power wheels

n8dog

Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2004 - 07:37 pm:

kidswheels.com

C. A.

Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 03:47 am:

My little brother (3 yrs) has a Lil' Kawasaki. It was a bargain toy for the kids to tool around with.

Anyway, the battery was dead and I wanted them to play with it, so I jerry rigged a trickle charger out of a 9V DC phone transformer. These are the 6V models.

So, while I waited for the thing to charge up I wondered what my 18V DeWalt drill battery would do. I got the polarity right and pushed the button and it seemed to have some power but I coulnd't test it with a load because it was 2Am and everyone was sleeping.

Next day, I put my bro on the thing and let him rip out in the backyard. (3 yr old, 40 or 50 pounds probably) The kid pulled a wheelie the first three times he pushed the button. I tell you, I haven't laughed so hard in a long time. He fell off for the first and rode out the other two. He's a big kid and the ground is soft so it didn't phase him. In fact he wanted to ride it more.

After about 20 minutes (the first battery) I explained turning to him and he tooled around the yard continuously for the other 5 batteries. The thing moves faster than any riding lawn mower I've ever been on, and when I compare it to the demo of the "performance series" Power Wheels scooter they have, this thing seems a bit faster (which I am amazed considering it is rated at 7 mph).

When I put the younger boys on it I have to run with them and help them steer because it would be too dangerous otherwise. It probably goes about jogging pace.

So, now I think I will put a Sealed Lead Acid 14 or 12 Volt battery with at least 8 AH rating (want the thing to last). They are about $14 so they aren't a big deal and they will fit the very tiny frame of the Lil' Kawasaki.

Now I'm looking for ways to boost it even more. Possibly making the drive wheels bigger or getting better traction off the back wheels. More than likely I'm burning up the motor but he's been playing with it for a few days. Anyway, it's cheap and fun to tinker with.

The rating on this is something like 2AH so it drains in 20 minutes or so of continuous use (but with 6 batteries and a 1 hour charge, I don't really have any problems.)

More specifically to your question, the standard manual doesn't have any detailed information. The only one that would is the manual for the techs who do the recall work, and they probably won't give it to you. Besides, don't waste your time with a wiring diagram. The things are incredibly simple. Hook power up from battery, plus and minus cables, hook the plus up through the switch (Pedal, push button, etc) and hook it up to the motor. Done. (I think the bigger models are 2 6volt parallel ciruits?) I think the 6V has a 25 Amp in-line fuse too, but I doubt it will ever pop. If the other models are more complicated, I really don't see how. You should be able to intuitivly work your way through it.

If anyone else has had any experience with souping up a power wheels I'd love to hear about it. (So Post!) (two years after inital thread :-))

Paul Miller

Posted on Monday, February 25, 2002 - 02:53 pm:

I know this is a bit off topic here, but I did read a post mentioning Power Wheels batteries for a ride on train...

I am looking for Service manual, Wiring diagram,battery voltages,parts list, etc for any of the Mattel Power Wheels battery Powered Ride On Jeeps, trucks, etc.

Mattel, is utterly useless, and seems to think they're guarding some sort of "National Security" info.

I have retrieved from the trash or been given 3 of these. 1 Wrangler Jeep, 1 Barbie Jeep and a single seat 4x4 truck. All are in some sort of disasembly, parts missing, etc....

I have 3 grandchildren and I can't afford to buy these expensive things so I'm hoping I can salvage, at least two of them.

ANY help\info would be MUCH appreciated!

You can contact me at pmiller91@comcast.net


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